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Fall Bulbs are Here!

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Planting bulbs for next spring is one of the surest ways to guarantee happy surprises in the future. Maybe even hide the record of what variety of tulip or daffodil you planted and enjoy the mystery of watching their colors emerge at a time where flowers seem like a miraculous alien life form.

Here is what we have this year. All of our bulbs are from a Dutch grower, DeVroomen. We have been working with them a long time and they also supply us with summer bulbs such as dahlias and gladioli, and bare roots for our house grown perennial program. You can find descriptions of all of these on the Devroomen website.

Daffodils (Narcissus):

  • Tête-à-Tête (shorter, early, miniature)

  • Kedron (double-flowered stems, deep apricot coronas)

  • Delibes (large yellow tepals, ruffled, orange-ring)

  • Chromacolor (white angular tepals, rosy salmon corona)

  • Snipe (miniature white, slim tepals, long corona)

  • Arctic Bells (small white tepals, large white/yellow/green coronas)

  • Replete (white tepals, double ruffled rosy and white coronas)

  • Ferris Wheel (large, yellow tepals, ruffled orange coronas)

  • Ice Follies (large white tepals, bright yellow ruffled coronas)

  • Grand Soleil d’Or (paperwhite style, for forcing, not perennial)

  • Mix: 60 days of Daffodils (two or more varieties of large blooms)

  • Mix: Fragrant Mix (early to late spring blooms of various sizes)

Allium:

  • Giganteum (large spherical purple blooms, tallest)

  • Globemaster (larger, denser flowers, shorter stem)

  • Purple Sensation (shorter, smaller blooms)

  • Sphaerocephalon (‘drumstick,’ tight red-purple blooms)

  • Nectaroscordum siculum (hanging umbels of burgundy and yellow striped, bell-shaped blossoms)

Tulips:

  • Daydream (golden petals with orange edges)

  • White Clouds/Hakuun (true white)

  • Blushing Impression (apricot petals with rosy centers)

  • Red Impression (silky bright red)

  • Lorenzo (double orange apricot with green-tipped outer petals)

  • Yellow Emperor (golden yellow)

  • Lightning Sun (rosy apricot pink)

  • Black Parrot dramatic (black-maroon fringed edges)

  • Brisbane (carnelian pink with light pink serrated edges)

  • Foxtrot (double pale-pink petals, darker and golden variation)

Bake Shop this fall

We will be open in the Bake Shop through October, with reduced hours. Please check back to see the schedule - we will post the hours each week along with the menu. We are available for special orders such as whole focaccia, whole cakes, boxes of cookies and bars, and more. Please let us know if we can help you with baked goods for your gatherings, meetings, and special occasions.

Rent our BAKE SHOP space for your next PARTY

We have been very lucky to have some lovely people rent our space to celebrate micro weddings, anniversaries, retirement parties, big birthdays, baby showers, and holiday company parties. We are now able to provide catering and bar service for these events. If you are looking to host your next gathering in a beautiful space, please get in touch with us at info@redwagonplants.com.

The Details

We can host groups of up to 30 for a seated meal and up to 50 for a casual grazing meal with bar service. When weather allows, guests can enjoy the patio and gardens and / or in one of the greenhouses. Our property is child friendly with a couple of play areas and lots of room to spread out.

The atmosphere is casual, with an open kitchen, simple bathroom, and covered porch.

We are now booking for November 2026 through March of 2027; limited dates in July, August and September of 2027; and November 2027 through March of 2028.

Our pricing varies and is based on the time of year, number of people in your party, and services provided. Please contact us for more information.

The Food

We are happy to discuss your dream menu, and also offer some suggestions here for seasonal, garden fresh offerings.

GRAZING AND MINGLING PARTY (SAMPLE MENU OPTIONS)

Snacks

Dip, Housemade focaccia, seasonal crudite 

- hummus, marinated chickpeas, roasted butternut squash (vegan) 

- whipped feta, marigold honey

Cheese & Charcuterie, housemade crackers, accompaniments 

Marinated olives 

Goat cheese stuffed dates 

Herb salt popcorn or snack mix 

Salads

Greens, Roasted Squash, Quinoa, Pepitas (vegan)

Panzanella, chicories, roasted beets, apple (could be vegan) 

Chicory Caesar Salad, Parmesan, Breadcrumbs 

Mains

Goat Cheese and Roasted Vegetable Tart

Spanish tortilla, aioli, pimenton 

Marinated white beans preserved lemon, chile 

Lentil salad, walnuts, golden raisins, feta 

Dessert

See below

SEATED DINNER, FAMILY STYLE (SAMPLE MENU OPTIONS)

Appetizers

Dip and accompaniments or cheese/charcuterie (see above) 

First Course

any of the items from the salad or other section above 

Main Course

Whole roasted cauliflower, tomato jam, pistachio gremolata (vegan) 

Potato crostata, caramelized onions, chicories 

Spanakoptia, greens, feta 

Braised chicken with mushrooms and herbs

Sides

Roasted Carrots, Farro, Apricot, Pistachio 

Polenta, peperonata 

Winter Squash, Agrodolce (vegan) 

Roasted Cabbage, caesar, breadcrumbs 

Dessert

Cornmeal Olive Oil Cake, maple roasted apples, Whipped Cream 

Buttermilk Panna Cotta, Seasonal fruit, Hazelnut brittle  

Tiramisu, Coffee, Amaro, Mascarpone Cream 

Cookie platter (mini cookies - chocolate chunk, oat and nut jam bar, coconut macaroon thumbprint, shortbread, rugelach etc ) 


Growing Cold Hardy Figs in Vermont

By: Steven Colangeli

Thanks to Steve, who has lots of experience growing figs in Vermont, for writing this article for us!

Ficus carica is the scientific name for the common fig. It is in the mulberry family. The tree is native to Asia and the Middle East. Fig trees do not like temperatures much below 20 degrees F. and potted trees should not be exposed to temperatures below freezing. There are over 700 varieties of figs, many which can handle a wide range of temperatures. People all over New England as well Canada grow figs successfully. Many grow in containers but many also grow in the ground. The tree is known for its sweet fruit with many health benefits including many vitamins, minerals, and anti-oxidants.

Fig trees like to go dormant: Fig trees are naturally deciduous and like to go through a cold dormant period in order to produce the most figs. For this reason they need to be allowed to drop their leaves in the fall and be brought into a cool dark area for the winter months. You will be pleasantly surprised in the spring as the tree comes back to life with many small figs being produced before the leaves come out. These are called the breba crop or first crop of figs, which are produced on last year’s growth. Later in the season the main crop of figs will be produced and will ripen in the early fall. The main crop tends to be sweeter and tastier and produces many more figs than the breba crop.

Why grow figs?

If you have never had a perfectly ripe fig off a tree, you don’t know what you are missing. Figs do not ripen once they have been picked, and a perfectly ripe fig only has a shelf life of about three days before it goes bad. This means that even if you purchase fresh figs from California, they had to be picked before they were truly ripe and do not taste the same. Most commercial figs are of only one or two varieties. Only by growing your own can you experience the amazing taste of some of the more exotic fig varieties like Italian Honey fig and Drop of Gold.

TWO WAYS TO GROW FIGS IN VERMONT

1. In the ground

Although this method is more difficult, if you have the correct conditions, certain varieties of cold hardy fig trees can survive in Vermont. Fig trees in the ground can handle temperatures down to

about 15 degrees F. The tree might die back to the ground, but it will re-sprout from the roots or lower trunk. A tree that dies back can still grow to 15 feet tall in one season and produce many figs. The problem is the season is not long enough for the figs to ripen and frost will damage many of them before they have a chance to ripen.

2. Grow in containers

In Vermont, fig trees in pots are the most practical way of growing them. During the winter, trees in containers can be stored in basements, attached garages, or insulated barns or sheds with some supplemental heat.

Pot size:

Figs should be transplanted into larger pots every couple of years until you reach a pot size that you can still move in and out of cold storage for the winter. A ten-gallon landscape pot is a nice size and you will have a large fig tree that can produce many figs. After about 3 years the pot will be completely root bound. In the spring when the tree is still dormant, pull the root ball out of the pot. Cut about a third of the root ball off with a saw and repot back into the container. Add new potting soil. The fig tree will push out more growth now that it has more space for roots to grow. I recommend drilling extra drainage holes in the bottom or lower sides of the pot. This will ensure proper drainage for the tree.

Soil type to use in pots:

I recommend a basic potting soil mixed with compost and some limestone. Figs like well-drained soils. Sand can also be added as well as a loamy soil mix.

Watering:

Fig trees grown in pots are water hogs. In the growing season they need to be watered everyday. If they start to get to dry they will start to wilt and drop their figs. I like to water until I see water coming out of the bottom of the pot. If you go away even for a couple of days, you will need a friend to water your trees. Reward them with fresh figs in the fall.

Fertilizer:

Growing figs in pots is more intensive and requires more fertilizer to be applied to the tree. I fertilize with an organic balanced granular and or a liquid organic fertilizer such as Neptune’s liquid fertilizer. I fertilize about every three to four weeks. As you move into the end of August you want to back off so the tree begins to harden off for the fall.

When to harvest your figs:

If you have taken good care of your fig tree with proper watering and fertilizer, you will be rewarded in the fall with an amazing crop of figs. Knowing when to pick your fig can be difficult. Patience pays when you eat a truly ripe fig. Wait for the fig to soften and droop. The eye of the fig will open and a drop of nectar can be seen. The fruit will also leave an impression of your fingerprint when ripe and the skin will start to tear.

WINTER STORAGE

Potted figs:

Fig leaves will start to turn yellow as the cooler temperatures of fall come. After some cold nights around freezing, the tree will drop its leaves. After this happens, take your tree into a cold storage area that stays dark and between 35 to 45 degrees F. Water only about once a month. Do not over apply water as this can kill the dormant tree. Check on your tree in late winter and make sure to expose to the light as the buds start to open. If you only have a couple of trees, you can put in a sunny window in your house.

Figs planted in the ground:

Fig trees planted in the ground should be wrapped in some sort of insulation and protect the ground around the tree with a heavy layer of mulch for insulation. Make sure the insulation is water tight so as not to get wet. A large plastic tarp will work. Make sure to wrap the base of the tree with some sort of protection from voles and other critters. Make sure to unwrap the tree in the spring before the tree starts to break dormancy.

Diseases and other pests:

The biggest problem I have had growing figs in Vermont is voles and mice eating my trees during their winter storage. Make sure to set traps. I have experimented with putting steel wool around the trunk of the trees as well with traps set around each tree. During the season the leaves can get fig rust, which is a fungal disease. The leaves will get rust colored spots and start to turn yellow. The tree can also drop its leaves if left unchecked. Make sure to keep the leaves dry when watering and use an organic copper spray labeled for rust if needed.

The fig tree is the most resilient plant I have ever worked with. Two winters ago, I had voles girdle about 10 of my largest trees. I was devastated and was convinced they were dead. Every plant expert will tell you once a tree is girdled it is dead. Well, spring came and the tree budded out and came to life. The bark started to heal and the trees survived and produced hundreds of figs!

For more information or questions please call or email Steve Colangeli.

Phone: 802-343-3423

Email: scolangeli1@gmail.com

This week, ALL Annuals are on sale 50% OFF

ALL ANNUAL FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE 50% 0FF

Here it is - your chance to build the lush late summer flowerscape of your dreams at half-price. All of our flowering and foliage annuals are on sale, and there are truly lots of options and healthy plants. Take your pick among elegant white Mandevillas, Rudbeckias in yellows and burgundies, some truly dramatic Coleus, tropical and lush New Guinea Impatiens, Petunias in many colors, Ivy, Dichondra, cut flowers, Begonias and a few dozen others to boot.

P.S. This sale doesn’t include houseplants, succulents, herbs or vegetables.

P.P.S. ALSO, we are giving a free plant to every customer. Check out our gift cart to pick your orphan and save a plant from the compost pile. They are seconds, but will still give you lots of joy.

August in the Cut Flower Garden: Harvesting and Arranging Bouquets

Mid to late summer is a busy time for the cut flower gardener. Many cut flower garden staples are now at their peak bloom and ready for harvest, or just about to pop. All the work you put into planting zinnias, cosmos, and sunflowers earlier in the season means now you get to enjoy bringing them inside or gifting them to others! Use these harvest tips to help make the most of your bouquets:

  • How do you know when a bloom is ready for harvest? Most flowers are at their best when they’re at the stage just before their petals fully open. They’ll gradually open more in the vase. One resource I like to use for specifics on when to harvest each flower is Johnny’s Seed catalog (link: www.johnnyseeds.com)

  • For most bouquets, you want to cut a length of stem about elbow length. Reach down and hold the stem so that the bloom sits at about the elbow, and use sharp snips or pruners to cleanly cut just below your fingers. Cutting at an angle allows for more surface area for the stem to absorb water in the vase, and also helps prevent a water “seal” that can happen if a flat stem sits flush with the bottom of the vase. Longer stems give you enough length to work with while arranging your bouquet, and you can always cut them shorter to fit their container. 

  • For the longest vase life, harvest in the morning or the evening into a container of cool, clean water. This helps the flowers stay hydrated and prevents pre-mature wilting. 

  • Similar to dead-heading, harvesting flowers can encourage another flush of blooms. Zinnias, cosmos, dahlias, snapdragons and others will produce more branches and flowers when they’re regularly harvested. Other species, like most types of sunflowers, are single-stem flowers that put their energy into producing one large bloom and will not regrow.

  • Strip each stem of leaves to prevent crowding. For many flowers it’s as easy as sliding your fingers from the top of the stem to the bottom in one motion, stripping the leaves downward. You can also experiment with leaving a little foliage at the top of the stem for some added interest in the bouquet, just avoid any leaves sitting in water since wet leaves will eventually rot.

  • Do you have too many flowers ready all at once? Some flowers preserve well by pressing the flower heads or petals between sheets of paper, or hanging the stems in bundles to dry. If you’re already maxed out on fresh bouquets, you can preserve your flowers now and use them for making bouquets and crafts into the winter. Smaller flowers and individual petals are best for pressing, like cosmos, violas, or the individual flowers of hydrangea clusters. Flowers that dry well are ones that are naturally low moisture or have tougher structures, like gomphrena, lavender, celosia, and strawflower. Drying or pressing your flowers can lead to surprising results like changes in texture or deepening colors. 

Arranging your bouquet

  • Florists arrange bouquets following a “recipe”, such as 3 dahlia stems, to 5 zinnias, 3 yarrow, and 3 sprigs of basil. Generally a bouquet is made up of components from these three categories: “focal flowers,” your largest or boldest centerpiece flowers, “secondary” flowers that add in some complementary colors and textures, and “filler” or greenery to add more structure, movement, or even an aromatic component. Following those guidelines when arranging your bouquet will help create something balanced and harmonious, but you can choose to arrange them however you like!

  • The technical process of building a bouquet can take some practice. Begin by holding your focal flower in one hand, then add the next stem by feeding it into your hand and crossing the first stem in an “x” shape. The secret to making a balanced, rounded bouquet is to then hold the stems where they cross, but rotate the bundle by a quarter turn before adding the next stem. Then alternate between your focal, support, and filler stems, rotating with each addition. The less you handle your stems, the longer the flowers will last, so don’t fuss too much about the perfect arrangement. A slightly awkward bouquet will look better than one with bent stems or bruised petals from too much handling.

This post is written by Eva Anders, Retail Manager at Red Wagon Plants

Bananas in Vermont!

Here is a fun fact! Some bananas can live through a Vermont winter outdoors! Our friend and permaculture garden expert, Jacob Holzberg-Pill has done it for a few years now and he has graciously written a description of his method. Jacob owns and operates a garden design business called Juneberry Landscaping, helping people create resilient and bountiful food scapes around their homes. While bananas won’t produce fruit here, they will grow into big tropical plants that will stop you in your tracks every time!

I planted two musa basjoo hardy fiber bananas at our house in Burlington in June 2018. I purchased them at the City Market Red Wagon Plants’ stand. I wanted to maximize warmth in summer and winter, and to minimize winter wet so I planted them on the south side of our house, near the foundation, under a bay window. We have excessively well drained sandy soil. I think wet heavy clay soil gets much colder in winter than dry sandy soil. When I planted the bananas, I dug a hole an extra foot deep and placed the bananas at the bottom of the hole and top-dressed them with a foot of compost. When I plant trees or shrubs, I match the soil level in the pot with the planting depth. In the late fall, I added a foot of woodchips on top of the few inches of mulch I had placed on the compost at planting.   Every other year I add another six inches of woodchips. The hole was about a foot away from the foundation of our house. It’s not a willow tree, I’m not worried about the roots destroying the house. In winter when the stems freeze, I let the stems get brown and mushy and leave them on the ground. I drag them to the compost in the spring during cleanup. Each plant sends up 3-6 stems every year. Usually, they grow over ten feet tall. They would get much taller if I watered and or fertilized, but I don’t. They never flower. I love the large tropical leaves and the joy and surprise of visitors who recognize the plants.

Thanks, Jacob, for this and for all you do to bring wonder and beauty into this world! Want to try it at home? This is a great week to do it. All of our banana plants are 30% off!

Bake Shop this week

Looking for your next picnic dish? You can order whole focaccia from our bake shop and make cucumber sandwiches with feta and olives. That, with a green salad, makes a perfect beach meal.  And cookies too. Or make it even easier for yourself, and grab some sandwiches from our case. We brine and roast the Stonewood Farms turkey in house, and it is exceptional.

July Jungle Time

July is all about weeding, pruning, staking, and generally containing the jungle. Water all your new plantings daily or at least every few days, to help them get well-established. We are in jungle time, and weeds can grow remarkably fast, so staying on top of them as much as possible will help make sure that the plants you like are getting all the sun and water and nutrients available to them.

Now is definitely the time for staking perennials that fall over and, to feel extra fancy, take some notes for yourself that, next year, those floppy plants should be staked earlier (for self-awarded bonus points, even put it on the calendar). An alternative to staking leggy perennials, to consider for next year, is to prune them before mid-June - a technique the English called the ‘Chelsea Chop,’ because a good time for doing it is around the Chelsea Flower Show in late May.

This is an apt technique for plants with multiple stems with offshoots, and especially plants that tend to grow tall and leggy. By cutting them back in the late spring, you can encourage your perennials to be shorter, more sturdy, later blooming and even more floriferous. With a proper Chelsea Chop, they might not even need staking.

If you’re intrigued, check out this video from the Royal Horticultural Society on the Chelsea Chop, and even more information about how to do it here, and file these sources away for next May (we’ll try to remember to remind you, too).

Do you have an empty spot in the veggie garden? Maybe you harvested garlic this past week and you are wondering what to put in that place? In our Plant Shop, there are plenty of new generations of heat-tolerant lettuces and greens, a few summer squashes, sprouting broccoli, kale, mustards and chicories. Now is a great time to refresh your garden with a round of fresh vegetable plants for a fall crop, or to add to the color palette of your flower beds.

You could also give the bed a rest, and plant a cover crop. We have some buckwheat seed in the Plant Shop for just this purpose. It is a beautiful plant and pollinators love the flowers. Buckwheat grows in really thickly and smothers out other weeds. After it flowers, you just mow it or chop it down, and incorporate it into the soil. It will add lots of organic matter and give your soil a little boost for next year.

Time for Herby Salads!

It is the season for salads and herbs! Here is a great recipe from our friend Molly Stevens that uses basil from the garden and is perfect for all of the greens and cucumbers and tomatoes that summer brings.

This is also your friendly reminder to salt your cucumbers before making a salad with them. They will be extra crunchy, won’t release their water into the dressing and thereby dilute the flavors, and they’ll absorb the herb flavors a little more. Just peel, slice, and toss with salt or herb salt in a colander over a bowl or in the sink. Wait 30 to 60 minutes (even overnight can work), and then taste. If they are much too salty, then rinse and pat dry. If the salt level works for you, toss with your favorite dressing or just lemon juice and olive oil.

Perfect summer side with grilled meats or fish or a sandwich.

July is Jungle Time and Plant of the Week

Height of summer means the plants are tall and towering. It is best to prune and stake a bit to give everyone a little breathing room for airflow and sunlight. In the vegetable garden, it also makes it easier to harvest. We recommend simple bamboo stakes and twine for simple supports in the vegetable and perennial gardens. With annual cut flowers, horizontally placed netting is the best. We have a couple of raised beds in the display garden that use horizontal netting so you can see how we do it.

In terms of pruning, cut back anything that is crowding other plants, branches that have broken, and anything dead or diseased. It will help plants in the long run even if it feels terrible to do it now.

Our plant of the week deal this week is a good one. ALL QUART ANNUALS are Buy Two, Get One FREE.