FAQ #20: Do I have enough sunlight for this plant?

First you need to determine if you have full sun, partial sun, or full shade in the area you are considering. The best way to do this is to spend a day (with a clear sky) at home and note which areas come into sun and when, and when they are in shade again. Do this in spring when you have a realistic amount of sunlight, not in summer when the day is longest.

Full sun means at least 6, but preferably 8 hours of direct sun each day. Sun loving plants can usually survive with less but will not bloom as much.

Part sun and part shade plants prefer 3-6 hours of direct sunlight per day; however part sun plants can usually take more heat than part shade plants, which will want relief from strong afternoon sun.

Full shade means zero to 3 hours of direct sunlight. These plants do NOT want total darkness but rather filtered, or indirect light, such as that provided by a deciduous forest.

FAQ #19: How can I manage powdery mildew?

From Sophia: Powdery mildew is a white powder-like fungus that particularly grows on cucurbits such as cucumbers and squash, French tarragon, bee balm, and other plants under adverse conditions. Powdery mildew does not generally kill the plants but will reduce their productivity and vigor. You can help prevent the disease by giving plants plenty of air circulation, only watering in the morning when the plants have time to dry, not planting cucurbits in the same place two years in a row, and destroying insect pests when you find them.

Once you have powdery mildew, you can manage it by removing the worst affected leaves with pruners. DO NOT put the leaves in your compost pile! Either burn them or throw them in the trash. Wash hands and tools with soapy water or dilute bleach solution after handling affected foliage and before touching other plants. Plants can be sprayed with a copper- or sulphur-based organic fungicide, or with a mixture of 1 teaspoon baking soda to 1 quart of water, once per week on the upper and undersides of the leaves until 2 weeks before harvest. This should eliminate the disease.

FAQ #18: How do I make compost?

Make some kind of container about 3’ in diameter, such as a length of chicken wire or 4 pallets hitched together to make a square.  Put a layer of sticks on the bottom, just thrown in to allow air to flow into the pile.  Add a variety of plant material, in layers if you can, but it’s not really necessary.  You need some brown material, such as leaves, and some green material, like freshly pulled weeds, grass clippings or kitchen scraps.  Top with a few handfuls of manure, if you have it, or half-done compost.  This isn’t necessary, but speeds up the process.  Sprinkle with water so the pile feels like a damp sponge.  Don’t soak it, it needs air.   The pile should heat up.  When it stops, turn it.  A compost aerator makes turning the pile an easy matter, so I do it more often, but you can also use a shovel or garden fork. Having two compost piles makes it easier to use the finished compost, since one can be allowed to finish while you’re adding to the other. Use the finished compost on your garden.  Even if it’s not be finely screened compost, it will finish decomposing in the soil.

FAQ #17: Should I plant annuals or perennials and what’s the difference anyway?

It depends on what you want! Annuals have to be planted each year because they are tender and don’t overwinter in VT, so you have to buy new ones each season.  However, once they start blooming, they do so all summer, if you take good care of them.  At the end of the summer just pull them out and throw them in the compost pile.

Perennials are long lived, often indefinitely, but only bloom for a part of the season.  In order to have color all season, you need to plant a wide variety of plants.  Some need to be cut down after blooming and you may have an empty spot in your garden.  Most perennials need dividing in order to be at their best and not look scraggly or take over the garden. Often a mix of annuals and perennials works well to ensure constant color in the garden. Biennials are plants that live for two years but behave somewhat like perennials because they flower and self-seed in their second year, and the seedlings will return year after year. Hollyhocks are a good example.

FAQ #16: Which perennials bloom the longest?

Virtually all plants will bloom longer if you deadhead them.  Picking lots of blossoms encourages the plant to branch and so you get more. I’ve had especially good luck with these varieties: Heliopsis (False Sunflower), which sometimes blossoms for 10-12 weeks in the fall Rudbeckia (Black Eyed Susan) – 6-7 weeks Monarda (Bee Balm) - 8-12 weeks Coreopsis - 8-12 weeks Bleeding Heart (Dicentra) ‘Luxuriant’ - 10-14 weeks, Feverfew – 8-12 weeks if you let new plants grow and cut back the old ones

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FAQ #15: Should I mulch my flower beds?

How much time do you want to spend weeding?  If you love to weed as I do, you don’t need to mulch.  However, mulching will save 80% of weeding time, so most people are happier with a mulched garden.  Use a fairly thin layer (2-3 inches) and put a thinner layer on in subsequent years.  Mulching also conserves water.  Make sure the soil is moist before mulching because the mulch sometimes inhibits moisture from getting to the roots.

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FAQ #14: How can I keep my garden looking good without spending all my time weeding?

First of all, gardens need some maintenance, so if you want a nice looking garden, you will need to commit some time to caring for it.  Bark or straw mulch helps to keep down weeds and makes those that do grow easier to pull up.  One good way is to edge with a shovel then use a hand cultivator to pull away the grass that is “cut off”.  Edging makes weeding easier and makes the garden look really nice when you are done.  When pressed for time, I edge, then weed in about 12 to 18 inches.  If your garden is full, the weeds in the middle won’t even show and you give an impression of a well-maintained space. Planting ground covers such as mosses, alyssum, and vinca will reduce the space that weeds can take over. You can check out a video on edging with a shovel here.

FAQ #13: What plants are easiest to take care of?

Annuals:

Geraniums

Imaptiens

Pansies

Marigolds

Salvias

Sunflowers

New Guinea Impatiens

Perennials:

Bleeding Heart

Astilbe

Echinacea

Garden Phlox

Sedums

Rudbeckia

Bee Balm

Lady's Mantle

FAQ #12: What perennial plants will do well in my shady garden?

Hostas are always a good choice and there are so many of them!  Using varieties with lots of yellow or white in the leaves gives “color” to the shade garden. They can can be divided each year to fill the area. Bleeding Heart - both white and pink heart-shaped flowers add a splash of color Astilbe - plumes of white or pink flowers add elegance in the spring

Sweet Woodruff  - a nice spring ephemeral with abundant tiny white flowers and shiny green foliage Pulmonaria has stunning dark green leaves with white splotches and delicate flowers in spring

Ferns and mosses are a great choice for filling in shady areas with nice textures

Brunnera - this plant comes in many shades of silver, green, and gold, and adds lovely heart shaped leaves and texture to the shade garden.

Laminum - a wonderful groundcover that with silver foliage and small blue flowers

FAQ #11: What soil should I use in my planters?

Vermont Compost Co.

Although it’s tempting to think you’ll save money by using garden soil, you won’t have as good success because garden soil does not hold moisture as well as potting soil. Proper moisture is essential for container plants because they dry out more quickly than plants in the ground. Using a high quality potting mix will ensure that the soil holds moisture and that it has the nutrients your plants need.  At Red Wagon we grow all of our plants in a great organic potting soil called  made by Vermont Compost Company. We also sell a variety of Vermont Compost Company products in our retail greenhouse. A good, compost-based mix will ensure that your plants thrive all summer long. Long flowering annuals such as petunias, fuschias, and gernaniums can benefit from some additional fertilizer during the season.

FAQ #10: How can I keep my hanging baskets looking good?

There are a few simple keys to keeping hanging baskets looking good. The first is proper watering - not too much, and not too little. A good method is to gently lift the plant in the morning. If it lifts easily and feels light, water thoroughly (until water runs out the bottom). If the pot feels solid and heavy, water lightly. If the pot feels very heavy, do not water it! Overwatering is a very common mistake. Check the pot again at the end of the day and water if it is light.

The next key is fertilizing. Hanging baskets usually have lots of flowers and therefore require lots of fertility. Watering every other week with liquid fertilizer (such as fish emulsion) will keep them looking good.  We like Neptune's organic fertilizers, though synthetic fertilizers like MiracleGro are more rapidly available to the plants if time is of the essence.

The final key is pruning. If you’ve done proper watering and fertilizing and the plant starts looking leggy or overgrown, give your hanging basket a good haircut  to get rid of its unhappy foliage and fertilize it. Within a few weeks it will be nicely filled in with new leaves and flowers. Transplanting into a larger container is also a good method of refreshing the plants.

FAQ #8: How much/often do I need to compost?

If your garden soil is naturally rich in organic matter, an inch or so of compost at the beginning of the season and again in midsummer is probably plenty. If you have very sandy or nutrient-depleted soil, provide as much compost as possible - several inches at the beginning of the season, a few handfuls for each plant at transplanting time, and a thick re-application in midsummer. If you have very poor soil it is also a good idea to rotate the growing area and grow nitrogen-fixing cover crops to increase the organic matter and nutrient content of the soil. The best way to determine your nutrient needs is to do a soil test. Soil can be tested using  a simple test from the garden garden center, but a professional soil test will provide more detailed information and recommendations for amendments. Soil samples can be sent to UVM Extension for soil testing for about $14. Find out more about soil testing here.

FAQ #7: What are some easy-to-grow veggies for containers?

Most garden favorites can be grown in containers as long as they are provided with plenty of soil, good drainage, light, and fertility. It is important to remember that container plants require more regular watering than plants grown in the ground since their roots cannot seek out water by growing deeper. The same goes for nutrients - fertilize at least every two weeks during the growing season. Some varieties have been bred especially for container growing, such as the “Tiny Tim” tomato.  

• Tomatoes should be grown one plant to a five-gallon bucket or similar container with holes drilled in the sides 2” from the bottom to create a water reservoir. Determinate varieties can use a  small stake, whereas indeterminate varieties need heavy stakes in the ground or screwed to the container.

• Peppers and eggplants require are least 8 inches of soil, so choose a nice deep container for them. Staking is recommended for plants that produce large fruits.

• Cukes, squash, and other vines can do very well in containers at least 12” in diameter provided there is plenty of room for their vines. Varieties with smaller fruit can be staked or trellised to save space.

• Greens such as lettuce and spinach can be grown in containers, but it is more challenging because they prefer cool conditions. Try growing them in a window box where they will be in shade during the hottest part of the day and make sure they get plenty of water.

• Herbs can very easily be grown in containers (since most are drought-tolerant)  and can be overwintered indoors in a sunny window.

FAQ #3: I'm new to gardening - what's the best use of a 10x12' raised bed?

Decide what you'd like to grow and eat, considering the space requirements and growth habit for each.  Vine veggies like cucumbers and squash can be planted on the periphery to spill out onto a lawn and not crowd the other plants; or they can also be trellised.

Give tomatoes at least 3 square feet, eggplant and peppers 2 square feet.   Also, consider rate of maturity; plant lettuce in one area, then after harvesting, plant beets or herbs. Planting a few edible flowers, such as nasturtium or gem marigold gives the raised bed a flower planter look. For ease of maintenance, make sure space or a path is made to reach all of the plantings.

Plants in a raised bed tend to yield more than plants in the ground because their roots are in lighter soil that is easier to grow in. It is important to only use good quality top soil and compost in the raised bed. The bottom layer can be filled with some rotted horse manure and yard waste like leaves and grass clipping.

Choose varieties that do well in smaller spaces and keep re-using the space once you harvest something.  Small patches of green beans can be replanted multiple times, a small trellis with a few snap peas can be a nice addition that leaves room for summer lettuce or fall broccoli. Just keep in mind that a few plants that are well cared for will yield as much as many plants that are poorly cared for!

FAQ #6: How do I grow asparagus?

The ideal method for growing asparagus is to prepare the area at least one season in advance by tilling and planting a cover crop to suppress weeds. This will help reduce stress on the asparagus plants during their first few years, ensuring a healthier and more vigorous crop. A cover crop turned into the bed also increases the organic matter in the soil which is good for the plants. Since asparagus is a perennial that can last for many years, choose a well-drained site that can be dedicated to asparagus for the foreseeable future.

Asparagus is usually grown by tilling an area and then digging trenches 6-8” deep and 3-5’ apart. The crowns (roots) are placed in the trenches 8” apart for narrow spears and 14” apart for thick spears. Cover the crowns with 1-2” of soil and fertilize heavily with compost or other phosphate-rich fertilizer. Add soil to the trenches three times during the next few weeks until the soil is mounded somewhat to avoid water pooling around the plants. Keep the plants hand-weeded and fertilized until midsummer, then mulch heavily with straw or leaves to suppress weeds. The asparagus “ferns” should be allowed to grow, since they feed the plants, then cut back after they die in the fall. A moderate harvest is usually possible the first year after planting, followed by full harvests every spring thereafter.

Red and black asparagus beetles are nearly always present in summer and can be treated with organic pesticides but are better removed by hand to minimize harm to the plants. Just drop the beetles and larvae into a can of soapy water to kill them. Larvae can also be killed by gently brushing the ferns with a soft broom - they die quickly after falling to the ground.

Although asparagus is not quite as simple to grow as annual crops, it is well worth the effort! Fresh, juicy asparagus spears are unrivaled in texture and flavor.

FAQ #5: Is “days to maturity” on veggie plants from when the seed germinated or transplant date and what may affect the rate of growth?

Days to maturity is from seed germination for direct seeded crops and from transplant time for crops that traditionally transplanted. However,  this determined by seed companies from  averaged seed trials under controlled (and somewhat ideal) conditions.  Normally, there is some variation from the stated maturity date.  As long as plants are healthy, have not been shocked at transplant and have received the right amount of light, temperature, moisture and fertility, plants will grow to maturity  within our growing season. On the plant signs at Red Wagon “days to maturity” indicates the number of days from transplanting to maturity. Seed catalogues also use the days from transplanting if it is a crop that is normally transplanted, such as tomatoes, peppers, or eggplants.

FAQ #4: How do I keep pests (rabbits, deer, slugs, woodchucks, etc.) out of my garden?

Physical and chemical barriers and pesticides are used to control or kill garden pests. The following are some physical methods of control: Rabbits hop, but do not jump, so a 3' chicken wire or hardware cloth fence will work to keep them out. However, woodchucks, moles and voles burrow, so one needs to bury fencing at least 1 1/2 feet underground. Another deterrent to above-ground critters is electrified wire running above ground across gate openings.  There are chemical repellents used on stakes or fencing to keep deer away.  For slugs, use diatomaceous earth around plantings, or trap with beer in pie plates or place a wide wooden plank on the garden surface, and next morning, remove slugs that congregate beneath it.

Try not to locate bird feeders too close to your veggie garden as they attract rodents such as voles, chipmunks and squirrels. Consider a cat as a pet!

FAQ #2: How do I know if a tomato is determinate or indeterminate? How do I support my tomatoes? Can I grow them in containers?

A determinate tomato is a type of tomato that has all of its fruit ripen at once. They usually grow to about 4 to 5 feet tall, and then stop growing while they spend all of their energy on fruit production. They are great for canning since they ensure you have a large harvest all at once. They can be grown without staking, but the fruit quality will be better if cages, stakes or a small trellis are used.  Indeterminate tomatoes keep growing until they succumb to frost or a disease. In a warm climate, they are actually perennials and can grow into trees. Indeterminates ripen all season long and give you a more sequential harvest with one or two tomatoes ripening a day during peak harvest.

In general, space tomato plants at least 2' apart, preferably 3' or more apart.  Support both kinds; pea fences or hardwood stakes work nicely on determinates; indeterminates keep growing up and out and need more support, such as hardwood stakes positioned so that as the tomatoes grow, trellising can be added with hemp twine.

Check out this video to see a method we like for trellising tomatoes:

Weaving Tomatoes

Round tomato cages are great for peppers and eggplants.  One of our customers designed a portable one-tomato planter with a five gallon bucket, drilled 3 holes about 2 inches from the bottom for a water reservoir, and screwed two hardwood stakes to opposite sides of the bucket for plant support.

FAQ #1 - Late Blight on Tomatoes and Potatoes

1. Can I do something to avoid the tomato blight (early and/or late season) and what should I do if my tomatoes (or potatoes) are infected?

For tomatoes, try growing blight resistant varieties and space plants 30" to 36" apart for good air circulation. Destroy infected plants ASAP to limit spread of the disease which needs living tissue to survive - plants should go into trash bags and taken to a land fill - not the compost pile. Organic treatment requires that a copper fungicide be applied before the disease appears and every 5-7 days in persistent wet weather.

Each year, plant breeders come out with varieties that are more resilient to blight. Of the varieties we grow, we recommend Juliet and San Marzano Gigante III. They both seem to have naturally occuring resistance to the disease.

For potatoes,  try planting potatoes in hills, rather than trenches for better air flow around foliage, and cut off infected leaves on a hot, dry day before the blight moves to the stem. Wait 2 or 3 weeks to dig tubers to reduce the chance for spores in the soil from infected foliage and in potentially nicked tubers. Also, make sure that you are buying potato seed that is certified disease free and comes from a reputable source.

Thanks to Ann Hazelrigg, Plant Pathologist, UVM Extension,  above adapted from "2011- Late Blight Reappears in Vermont".

Websites:  www.hort.cornell.edu/lateblight for disease ID and webinar. www.uvm.edu/mastergardener to submit samples for LB confirmation www.nevegetabl.org for info on fungicides labeled for late blight control

New Plants for the 2012 Line Up

We have been busy at work with ordering seeds, deciding on what plants to grow for the coming year, and which ones to discontinue. We usually add about 10% new varieties each year - enough to keep it interesting, but not so much that we risk having bad inventory or unwanted expenses for a plant no one loves. This is really, really hard since the seed catalogs and plug listings each year show more and more varieties that look tempting. Not to mention the world of heirloom seeds which is so vast and so alluringly historic and charming. If the pressures of pleasing customers and breaking even were eliminated, I would probably have the type of nursery where every plant has a sign that is 12" x 12" with lots of text describing some arcane knowledge about how the variety was bred or discovered, how it was cooked in 15th century Sicily and  how it came to be a Red Wagon variety. My winter job at Red Wagon is part business manager, part HR department, and part curator. Guess which is my favorite. Take a look at the list of new plants and give us some feedback. Our favorite new variety is the kind that comes by way of a customer recommendation, so you get a vote in this process.

Happy garden planning, and check out the rest of the website for the complete plant list, we are updating it this week,

Julie

Plant Category	Genus	Variety or Cultivar
Annuals	African Foxglove	Ceratotheca triloba
Annuals	Amaranth	Oeschberg
Annuals	Angelonia	Adessa White
Annuals	Balsam	Impatiens Balsamina
Annuals	Begonia, Tuberous	Illumination Peaches and Cream
Annuals	Begonia, Tuberous	Non-Stop, Bright Rose
Annuals	Begonia, Tuberous	Pin Up Flame
Annuals	Browalia	Endless Flirtation
Annuals	Browalia	Endless Illumination
Annuals	Calibrachoa	Saffron
Annuals	Calibrachoa	Superbells Dreamsicle
Annuals	Calibrachoa	Superbells Peach
Annuals	Calibrachoa	Superbells Trailing White
Annuals	Calibrachoa	Tequilla Sunrise Improved
Annuals	Calibrachoa	Yellow
Annuals	California Poppy	Milkmaid
Annuals	Celosia	Chief Mixed Cockscomb
Annuals	Celosia	Cramers’ Amazon
Annuals	Coleus	Amora
Annuals	Coleus	Big Red Judy
Annuals	Coleus	Fishnet Stockings
Annuals	coleus	Glennis
Annuals	Coleus	Sedona
Annuals	coleus	Wedding Train
Annuals	Cosmos	Cosmic  Orange
Annuals	Cosmos	Cosmic Mix
Annuals	Cosmos	Cosmic Red
Annuals	Cosmos	New Choco
Annuals	Cosmos	Sonata Dwarf Mix
Annuals	Cosmos	Sonata White
Annuals	Dahlia	Happy Days Cream
Annuals	Dahlia	Happy Days Pink
Annuals	Dahlia	Happy Days Purple
Annuals	Dahlia	Happy Mystic enchantment
Annuals	Dahlia	Mystic Haze
Annuals	Dahlia	Mystic Wonder
Annuals	Dahlia	Salvador
Annuals	Dusty Miller	Silver Lace
Annuals	Euphorbia	Mountain Snow
Annuals	Exclusively  Echeveriaa Collection
Annuals	Fern	Montana
Annuals	Fern Collection
Annuals	Floering Cabbage	Osaka Mix
Annuals	Four Oclock	Marvel of Peru
Annuals	Gaura lindiheimeri	Whirling Butterflies
Annuals	Gazania	New Day Mix
Annuals	Geranium	Firestar Purple
Annuals	Geranium	Firestar Salmon
Annuals	Geranium, Ivy	Mini Cascade Red
Annuals	Geranium, Ivy	Sunflair Fireball
Annuals	Geranium, Ivy	Sunflair Neon Pink
Annuals	Geranium, Ivy	Sybil Holmes
Annuals	Geranium, Ivy	Vancouver Centennial
Annuals	Geranium, Scented	Lemon Fizz
Annuals	Geranium, Scented	P. querquifolia
Annuals	Geranium, Scented	Sweet Mimosa
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Brocade Happy Thoughts Red
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Brocade, Mrs Pollock
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Candy Fantasy Kiss
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Madame Salleron
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Patriot Cherry Rose
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Patriot Lavender Blue
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Patriot Salmon Chic
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Pillar Purple
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Rocky Mountain Lavender
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Rocky Mountain Magenta
Annuals	Gomphrena	QIS Formula Mix
Annuals	Hedera	Golden Child
Annuals	Hedera	White Mein Hertz
Annuals	Hypoestes	Splash Rose Select
Annuals	Impatiens	Super Elfin Salmon Splash
Annuals	Impatiens	Super Elfin XP pink
Annuals	Ipomoea	Desana Bronze
Annuals	Juncus	Blue Arrows
Annuals	Juncus spiralis	Unicorn
Annuals	Kiss Me Over the Garden Gate
Annuals	Lantana	Evita Rose
Annuals	Lantana	Bandana Cherry Sunrise
Annuals	Lantana	Bandana Rose Improved
Annuals	Lantana - bandana	Peach
Annuals	Larkspur	Sublime Formula Mix
Annuals	Leycesteria	Jealousy
Annuals	Licorice	Lemon
Annuals	Lisianthus	Echo Lavender
Annuals	Lisianthus	Echo Pink
Annuals	Lobularia	Silver Stream
Annuals	Marigold	Antigua Orange
Annuals	Marigold	Antigua Yellow
Annuals	Marigold	French Janie Primrose Yellow
Annuals	Marigold	French Single Marietta
Annuals	Marigold, French	Durango Tangerine
Annuals	Melampodium	Derby
Annuals	Morning Glory	Grandpa Ott’s
Annuals	Morning Glory	Moonflower
Annuals	Nasturtium	Trailing
Annuals	Nemesia	Angelart Almond
Annuals	Nemesia	Angelart Pineapple
Annuals	Ornamental Corn	Field of Dreams
Annuals	Ornamental Millet	Purple Majesty
Annuals	Osteospermum	3-D Silver
Annuals	Osteospermum	Astra Orange Sunrise
Annuals	Osteospermum	Cape Daisy Fireburst
Annuals	Osteospermum	Cape Daisy Purple
Annuals	Osteospermum	Sunset Orange
Annuals	Osteospermum	Zion Copper Amethyst
Annuals	Oxalis	Allure Burgundy
Annuals	oxalis triangularis	Charmed Velvet
Annuals	oxalis triangularis	Charmed WIne
Annuals	Pansy	Delta Mix Buttered Popcorn
Annuals	Pansy	Delta Premium True Blue
Annuals	Pansy	Freefall Golden Yellow
Annuals	Pansy	Matrix Sangria
Annuals	Pansy	Panola XP Mix baby Boy
Annuals	Pansy	Panola XP Mix Blackberry Sundae
Annuals	Pansy	Panola XP Mix Citrus
Annuals	Pansy	Ultima Blue Chill
Annuals	Pansy	Ultima Morpho
Annuals	Petunia	Bouquet Salmon
Annuals	Petunia	Littletunia Sweet Sherbert
Annuals	Petunia	Mini Strawberry pink veined
Annuals	Petunia	Whispers Star Rose
Annuals	Petunia Cascadias	Cherry Spark
Annuals	Petunia Littletunia	Sweet Dark Pink
Annuals	petunia multiflora prostrate	Easy Wave Plum Vein
Annuals	Petunia multiflora prostrate	Easy Wave White
Annuals	Poppy	White Linen
Annuals	Portulaca	Happy Hour Mix
Annuals	Portulaca	Sundial Chiffon
Annuals	Portulaca	Sundial Mix
Annuals	Portulaca	Sundial Pink
Annuals	Rudbeckia	Autumn Colors
Annuals	Rudbeckia	Cherokee Sunset
Annuals	Rudbeckia	Prairie Sun
Annuals	Rudbeckia	Denver Daisy
Annuals	Salvia farinacea	Victoria Blue
Annuals	Sanvitalia	Cuzco Yellow
Annuals	Scabiosa	Black Knight
Annuals	Snapdragon	Montego Mix Sangria
Annuals	Snapdragon	Rocket Mix
Annuals	Snapdragon	Rocket White
Annuals	Spectacular Succulent Collection
Annuals	Sunflower	Sunny Smile
Annuals	Sweet Potato Vine	Bright Ideas Rusty Red
Annuals	Thunbergia	Arizona Dark Red
Annuals	Thunbergia	Lemon
Annuals	Thunbergia	Orange
Annuals	Thunbergia	Sunny Suzie Yellow Dark Eye
Annuals	Thunbergia	Sunny Suzy Red Orange
Annuals	TRIXI COMBO	Ayers Rock
Annuals	TRIXI COMBO	Caribean Cocktail
Annuals	TRIXI COMBO	Gold and Bold
Annuals	TRIXI COMBO	Lemon Sorbet
Annuals	TRIXI COMBO	Lollipop
Annuals	TRIXI COMBO	Sunrise
Annuals	Verbena	Chambray Royal superbena
Annuals	Verbena	Estrella Salmon Star
Annuals	Verbena	Lanai Twister pink
Annuals	Verbena	Royal Peachy Keen
Annuals	Verbena	Tukana Scarlet star
Annuals	Viola	Penny Orchid Frost
Annuals	Zinnia	Dreamland Mix
Annuals	Zinnia	Dreamland Red
Annuals	Zinnia	Sunbow Mix
Annuals	Zinnia	White
Eggplants	Globe	Rosa Bianca
Ferns	Matteuccia struthiopteris	Ostrich Fern
Foliage	Alternanthera	Brazilian Red Hot
Foliage	Alternanthera	Red Thread
Foliage	German Ivy	Green
Foliage	Muehlenbeckia	Wire Vine
Foliage	Setcreasea	Purple Queen
Herbs	Basil	Amethyst Improved
Herbs	Basil	Sacred, Tulsi
Herbs	Basil	Sweet Genovese, Aroma II
Herbs	Basil	Sweet Genovese, Aton
Herbs	Bee Balm	Wild Bergamot
Herbs	Epazote
Herbs	Feverfew
Herbs	Flax
Herbs	French Sorrel
Herbs	Lavender	Fern Leaf
Herbs	Lemongrass	West Indian
Herbs	Mint	Emerald and Gold
Herbs	Oregano	Mexican Lippia
Herbs	Papalo
Herbs	Red Shiso	Britton
Herbs	Red Shiso
Herbs	Rosemary	Prostrate
Herbs	Sage	White
Herbs	Thyme	Lime Golden
Herbs	Thyme	Orange
Herbs	Thyme	Wooly
Herbs	Zaatar	Marjoram
Peppers	Hot	Fish
Peppers	Ornamental Hot Pepper	Chilly Chilly
Peppers	Sweet	Pepperoncino
Peppers	Sweet	Round of Hungary
Peppers	Sweet	Sweet Banana Pepper
Perennial	Adenophora	Amethyst
Perennial	Alchemilla	Lady’s Mantle
Perennial	Sedum	Blue Spruce
Perennial	Sedum	Floriferum
Perennial	Sedum	Oracle
Perennial	Sedum	Picolette
Perennial	Sedum	Voodoo
Perennial	Thyme	Wooly
Perennials	Achillea	Pretty Belinda
Perennials	Achillea	Saucy Seduction
Perennials	Achillea	Strawberry Seduction
Perennials	Achillea	Sunny Seduction
Perennials	Achillea millefolium	Colorado
Perennials	Acorus	‘Ogon’
Perennials	ajuga	Dixie Chip
Perennials	Alcea rosea	Chaters Double Purple
Perennials	Alchemilla Molis	Lady’s Mantle
Perennials	Anemone	sylvestris
Perennials	Aquigelia	Cameo Rose and White
Perennials	Aquigelia	Origami Mix
Perennials	Artemesia	Silver Brocade
Perennials	Astilbe	Delft Lace
Perennials	Astilbe	Deutschland
Perennials	Astilbe	Fanal
Perennials	Baptisia Solar Flare	Prairie Blues
Perennials	Bellis Daisy	Bellissima Rose
Perennials	Bergenia cordifolia	‘Winter Glow’
Perennials	Campanula glomerata	‘Freya’
Perennials	Centranthus	Cocineus
Perennials	Chrysanthemum	Samba
Perennials	Coreopsis verticullata	Early Sunrise
Perennials	corydalis sempervirens
Perennials	Delphinium	Magic Fountains Dark Blue w Dark Bee
Perennials	Delphinium	Magic Fountains Sky Blue w White Base
Perennials	dianthus	Pomegranate Kiss
Perennials	dianthus	Zing Rose
Perennials	Dicentra	Gold Heart
Perennials	Echinacea	Harvest Moon
Perennials	Echinacea	PowWow Wild Berry
Perennials	Echinacea	Sundown
Perennials	Eupatorium dubium	‘little joe’
Perennials	Fern	Barne’s Male
Perennials	Gaillardia aristata	Arizona Sun
Perennials	geranium	Rozanne
Perennials	Geranium cantabrigiense	‘Bergarten’
Perennials	Geranium macrorrhizum	‘Album’
Perennials	Geranium maculatum	‘Espresso’
Perennials	Guara	Pink Fountain
Perennials	Helleborus	Pink Parachutes
Perennials	Hemerocallis	Alabama Jubilee daylily
Perennials	Hemerocallis	Always Afternoon
Perennials	Heuchera	‘Snow Angel’
Perennials	Heuchera	Obsidian
Perennials	Heuchera	Plum Pudding
Perennials	Heuchera	Raspberry Regal
Perennials	Heuchera	Silver Scrolls
Perennials	Hibiscus	Luna Red
Perennials	Iberis sempervivens	Snowflake
Perennials	Iris	‘Before the Storm’
Perennials	Iris pallida	‘Argentea Variegata’
Perennials	Iris sibirica	Pink Haze
Perennials	Joe Pye Weed
Perennials	Juncus effusus ssp.	Twister
Perennials	laminum	Beacon Silver
Perennials	Lamium	Orchid Frost
Perennials	Lamium maculatum	Beacon Silver
perennials	Lathyrus latifolia	Perennial sweet pea
Perennials	Liatris	Floristan White
Perennials	Ligularia dentata	Britt-Marie Crawford
Perennials	Ligularia dentata	Little Rocket
Perennials	Lychnis arkwrightii	Orange Gnome
Perennials	Lysimachia punctata	‘Alexander’
Perennials	monarda	Petite Delight
Perennials	monarda	Purple Rooster
Perennials	monarda	Raspberry Wine
Perennials	monarda didyma	Jacob Cline
Perennials	myosotis sylvatica	Royal Blue Carpet
Perennials	paeonia	Duchess de Nemours
Perennials	paeonia	Felix Crousse
Perennials	Papaver	Flamenco Dancer
Perennials	Penstemon digitalis	Dark Towers
Perennials	Perovskia	Longin
Perennials	Persicaria	Darjeeling Red
Perennials	Phlox glabberima	‘Morris Red’
Perennials	Phlox paniculata	David
Perennials	Phlox paniculata	David’s Lavender
Perennials	Phlox paniculata	Flame series purple ‘Barfourteen’
Perennials	Physostegia	Pink Manners
perennials	Physostegia virginiana	Alba
Perennials	Phystostegia	Crown of Snow
Perennials	Primula	Ronsdorf Strain
Perennials	Salvia	Caradonna
Perennials	Salvia	Sweet 16
Perennials	Scabiosa	Beaujolais Bonnets
Perennials	Scabiosa	Vivid Violet
Perennials	Sedum	Autumn FIre
Perennials	Sedum	Matrona
Perennials	Sedum	Neon
Perennials	sedum	kamtschaticum
Perennials	sedum	sieboldii
Perennials	Sedum spurium	Summer Glory
Perennials	Tanacetum	Robinsons Red
Perennials	Tiarella	‘Delaware’
Perennials	Tiarella	‘Lace Carpet’
Perennials	Tiarella	‘Susquehanna’
Perennials	Trollius chinensis	Golden Queen
Perennials	Veronica	Giles van Hees
Perennials	Viola	Labradorica
Perennials	Viola	Striata
Perennials	Salvia aregentea	Artemis
Shrub	Hydrangea macrophylla	Endless Summer
Shrub	Hydrangea paniculata	Limelight
Shrub	Amelanchier Autumn Brilliance	Service Berry
Shrub	Ilex verticulata	Southern Gentleman
Shrub	Ilex verticulata	Winter Red
Shrub	Viburnum Trilobum	Alfredo
Small Fruit	Blackberry	Black Satin
Small Fruit	Gooseberry	Titan
Small Fruit	Strawberry	Jewel
Small Fruit	Strawberry	Sparkle
Tomatoes	Cherry	Gold Nugget
Tomatoes	Cherry	Green Envy
Tomatoes	Cherry	Isis Candy
Tomatoes	Cherry	Lizzano
Tomatoes	Cherry	Sweet Treats
Tomatoes	Cherry	Terenzo
Tomatoes	Cherry	Sweet Black Cherry
Tomatoes	Container	Red Husky (Patio)
Tomatoes	Determinate	Orange Blossom
Tomatoes	Determinate	Oregon Spring
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Black Prince
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Cosmonaut Volkov
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Costoluto Genovese
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Dona
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Earl of Edgecombe
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Paul Robeson
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Pineapple
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Wapsipinicon Peach
Tomatoes	Hybrid	Brandymaster Yellow
Tomatoes	Hybrid	Park’s Whopper
Tomatoes	Paste	Amish Gold
Tomatoes	Plum	San Marzano gigante III
Vegetables	cantaloupe	Sarah’s Choice
Vegetables	Cantaloupe, French Charentais	Savor
Vegetables	Italian Dandelion	Clio Chicory
Vegetables	Lettuce	Mottistone
Vegetables	Lettuce	Nevada Summer Crisp
Vegetables	Lettuce	Red Batavian Cherokee
Vegetables	Lettuce	Red Cross - Red Butterhead
Vegetables	Lettuce	Red Oak Paradai
Vegetables	Mei Qing Choi (Baby Boc Choi)	Boc Choi
Vegetables	Mustard Greens	Ruby Streaks
Vegetables	Okra	Millionaire
Vegetables	Onion	Mini Purplette
Vegetables	Onion	Redwing
Vegetables	Radicchio	Virtus
Vegetables	Summer Squash	Magda
Vegetables	Vertus	Radicchio
Vegetables	watermelon	Sunshine