FAQ #13: What plants are easiest to take care of?

Annuals:

Geraniums

Imaptiens

Pansies

Marigolds

Salvias

Sunflowers

New Guinea Impatiens

Perennials:

Bleeding Heart

Astilbe

Echinacea

Garden Phlox

Sedums

Rudbeckia

Bee Balm

Lady's Mantle

FAQ #12: What perennial plants will do well in my shady garden?

Hostas are always a good choice and there are so many of them!  Using varieties with lots of yellow or white in the leaves gives “color” to the shade garden. They can can be divided each year to fill the area. Bleeding Heart - both white and pink heart-shaped flowers add a splash of color Astilbe - plumes of white or pink flowers add elegance in the spring

Sweet Woodruff  - a nice spring ephemeral with abundant tiny white flowers and shiny green foliage Pulmonaria has stunning dark green leaves with white splotches and delicate flowers in spring

Ferns and mosses are a great choice for filling in shady areas with nice textures

Brunnera - this plant comes in many shades of silver, green, and gold, and adds lovely heart shaped leaves and texture to the shade garden.

Laminum - a wonderful groundcover that with silver foliage and small blue flowers

FAQ #11: What soil should I use in my planters?

Vermont Compost Co.

Although it’s tempting to think you’ll save money by using garden soil, you won’t have as good success because garden soil does not hold moisture as well as potting soil. Proper moisture is essential for container plants because they dry out more quickly than plants in the ground. Using a high quality potting mix will ensure that the soil holds moisture and that it has the nutrients your plants need.  At Red Wagon we grow all of our plants in a great organic potting soil called  made by Vermont Compost Company. We also sell a variety of Vermont Compost Company products in our retail greenhouse. A good, compost-based mix will ensure that your plants thrive all summer long. Long flowering annuals such as petunias, fuschias, and gernaniums can benefit from some additional fertilizer during the season.

FAQ #10: How can I keep my hanging baskets looking good?

There are a few simple keys to keeping hanging baskets looking good. The first is proper watering - not too much, and not too little. A good method is to gently lift the plant in the morning. If it lifts easily and feels light, water thoroughly (until water runs out the bottom). If the pot feels solid and heavy, water lightly. If the pot feels very heavy, do not water it! Overwatering is a very common mistake. Check the pot again at the end of the day and water if it is light.

The next key is fertilizing. Hanging baskets usually have lots of flowers and therefore require lots of fertility. Watering every other week with liquid fertilizer (such as fish emulsion) will keep them looking good.  We like Neptune's organic fertilizers, though synthetic fertilizers like MiracleGro are more rapidly available to the plants if time is of the essence.

The final key is pruning. If you’ve done proper watering and fertilizing and the plant starts looking leggy or overgrown, give your hanging basket a good haircut  to get rid of its unhappy foliage and fertilize it. Within a few weeks it will be nicely filled in with new leaves and flowers. Transplanting into a larger container is also a good method of refreshing the plants.

FAQ #8: How much/often do I need to compost?

If your garden soil is naturally rich in organic matter, an inch or so of compost at the beginning of the season and again in midsummer is probably plenty. If you have very sandy or nutrient-depleted soil, provide as much compost as possible - several inches at the beginning of the season, a few handfuls for each plant at transplanting time, and a thick re-application in midsummer. If you have very poor soil it is also a good idea to rotate the growing area and grow nitrogen-fixing cover crops to increase the organic matter and nutrient content of the soil. The best way to determine your nutrient needs is to do a soil test. Soil can be tested using  a simple test from the garden garden center, but a professional soil test will provide more detailed information and recommendations for amendments. Soil samples can be sent to UVM Extension for soil testing for about $14. Find out more about soil testing here.

FAQ #7: What are some easy-to-grow veggies for containers?

Most garden favorites can be grown in containers as long as they are provided with plenty of soil, good drainage, light, and fertility. It is important to remember that container plants require more regular watering than plants grown in the ground since their roots cannot seek out water by growing deeper. The same goes for nutrients - fertilize at least every two weeks during the growing season. Some varieties have been bred especially for container growing, such as the “Tiny Tim” tomato.  

• Tomatoes should be grown one plant to a five-gallon bucket or similar container with holes drilled in the sides 2” from the bottom to create a water reservoir. Determinate varieties can use a  small stake, whereas indeterminate varieties need heavy stakes in the ground or screwed to the container.

• Peppers and eggplants require are least 8 inches of soil, so choose a nice deep container for them. Staking is recommended for plants that produce large fruits.

• Cukes, squash, and other vines can do very well in containers at least 12” in diameter provided there is plenty of room for their vines. Varieties with smaller fruit can be staked or trellised to save space.

• Greens such as lettuce and spinach can be grown in containers, but it is more challenging because they prefer cool conditions. Try growing them in a window box where they will be in shade during the hottest part of the day and make sure they get plenty of water.

• Herbs can very easily be grown in containers (since most are drought-tolerant)  and can be overwintered indoors in a sunny window.

FAQ #3: I'm new to gardening - what's the best use of a 10x12' raised bed?

Decide what you'd like to grow and eat, considering the space requirements and growth habit for each.  Vine veggies like cucumbers and squash can be planted on the periphery to spill out onto a lawn and not crowd the other plants; or they can also be trellised.

Give tomatoes at least 3 square feet, eggplant and peppers 2 square feet.   Also, consider rate of maturity; plant lettuce in one area, then after harvesting, plant beets or herbs. Planting a few edible flowers, such as nasturtium or gem marigold gives the raised bed a flower planter look. For ease of maintenance, make sure space or a path is made to reach all of the plantings.

Plants in a raised bed tend to yield more than plants in the ground because their roots are in lighter soil that is easier to grow in. It is important to only use good quality top soil and compost in the raised bed. The bottom layer can be filled with some rotted horse manure and yard waste like leaves and grass clipping.

Choose varieties that do well in smaller spaces and keep re-using the space once you harvest something.  Small patches of green beans can be replanted multiple times, a small trellis with a few snap peas can be a nice addition that leaves room for summer lettuce or fall broccoli. Just keep in mind that a few plants that are well cared for will yield as much as many plants that are poorly cared for!

FAQ #6: How do I grow asparagus?

The ideal method for growing asparagus is to prepare the area at least one season in advance by tilling and planting a cover crop to suppress weeds. This will help reduce stress on the asparagus plants during their first few years, ensuring a healthier and more vigorous crop. A cover crop turned into the bed also increases the organic matter in the soil which is good for the plants. Since asparagus is a perennial that can last for many years, choose a well-drained site that can be dedicated to asparagus for the foreseeable future.

Asparagus is usually grown by tilling an area and then digging trenches 6-8” deep and 3-5’ apart. The crowns (roots) are placed in the trenches 8” apart for narrow spears and 14” apart for thick spears. Cover the crowns with 1-2” of soil and fertilize heavily with compost or other phosphate-rich fertilizer. Add soil to the trenches three times during the next few weeks until the soil is mounded somewhat to avoid water pooling around the plants. Keep the plants hand-weeded and fertilized until midsummer, then mulch heavily with straw or leaves to suppress weeds. The asparagus “ferns” should be allowed to grow, since they feed the plants, then cut back after they die in the fall. A moderate harvest is usually possible the first year after planting, followed by full harvests every spring thereafter.

Red and black asparagus beetles are nearly always present in summer and can be treated with organic pesticides but are better removed by hand to minimize harm to the plants. Just drop the beetles and larvae into a can of soapy water to kill them. Larvae can also be killed by gently brushing the ferns with a soft broom - they die quickly after falling to the ground.

Although asparagus is not quite as simple to grow as annual crops, it is well worth the effort! Fresh, juicy asparagus spears are unrivaled in texture and flavor.

FAQ #5: Is “days to maturity” on veggie plants from when the seed germinated or transplant date and what may affect the rate of growth?

Days to maturity is from seed germination for direct seeded crops and from transplant time for crops that traditionally transplanted. However,  this determined by seed companies from  averaged seed trials under controlled (and somewhat ideal) conditions.  Normally, there is some variation from the stated maturity date.  As long as plants are healthy, have not been shocked at transplant and have received the right amount of light, temperature, moisture and fertility, plants will grow to maturity  within our growing season. On the plant signs at Red Wagon “days to maturity” indicates the number of days from transplanting to maturity. Seed catalogues also use the days from transplanting if it is a crop that is normally transplanted, such as tomatoes, peppers, or eggplants.

FAQ #4: How do I keep pests (rabbits, deer, slugs, woodchucks, etc.) out of my garden?

Physical and chemical barriers and pesticides are used to control or kill garden pests. The following are some physical methods of control: Rabbits hop, but do not jump, so a 3' chicken wire or hardware cloth fence will work to keep them out. However, woodchucks, moles and voles burrow, so one needs to bury fencing at least 1 1/2 feet underground. Another deterrent to above-ground critters is electrified wire running above ground across gate openings.  There are chemical repellents used on stakes or fencing to keep deer away.  For slugs, use diatomaceous earth around plantings, or trap with beer in pie plates or place a wide wooden plank on the garden surface, and next morning, remove slugs that congregate beneath it.

Try not to locate bird feeders too close to your veggie garden as they attract rodents such as voles, chipmunks and squirrels. Consider a cat as a pet!

FAQ #2: How do I know if a tomato is determinate or indeterminate? How do I support my tomatoes? Can I grow them in containers?

A determinate tomato is a type of tomato that has all of its fruit ripen at once. They usually grow to about 4 to 5 feet tall, and then stop growing while they spend all of their energy on fruit production. They are great for canning since they ensure you have a large harvest all at once. They can be grown without staking, but the fruit quality will be better if cages, stakes or a small trellis are used.  Indeterminate tomatoes keep growing until they succumb to frost or a disease. In a warm climate, they are actually perennials and can grow into trees. Indeterminates ripen all season long and give you a more sequential harvest with one or two tomatoes ripening a day during peak harvest.

In general, space tomato plants at least 2' apart, preferably 3' or more apart.  Support both kinds; pea fences or hardwood stakes work nicely on determinates; indeterminates keep growing up and out and need more support, such as hardwood stakes positioned so that as the tomatoes grow, trellising can be added with hemp twine.

Check out this video to see a method we like for trellising tomatoes:

Weaving Tomatoes

Round tomato cages are great for peppers and eggplants.  One of our customers designed a portable one-tomato planter with a five gallon bucket, drilled 3 holes about 2 inches from the bottom for a water reservoir, and screwed two hardwood stakes to opposite sides of the bucket for plant support.

FAQ #1 - Late Blight on Tomatoes and Potatoes

1. Can I do something to avoid the tomato blight (early and/or late season) and what should I do if my tomatoes (or potatoes) are infected?

For tomatoes, try growing blight resistant varieties and space plants 30" to 36" apart for good air circulation. Destroy infected plants ASAP to limit spread of the disease which needs living tissue to survive - plants should go into trash bags and taken to a land fill - not the compost pile. Organic treatment requires that a copper fungicide be applied before the disease appears and every 5-7 days in persistent wet weather.

Each year, plant breeders come out with varieties that are more resilient to blight. Of the varieties we grow, we recommend Juliet and San Marzano Gigante III. They both seem to have naturally occuring resistance to the disease.

For potatoes,  try planting potatoes in hills, rather than trenches for better air flow around foliage, and cut off infected leaves on a hot, dry day before the blight moves to the stem. Wait 2 or 3 weeks to dig tubers to reduce the chance for spores in the soil from infected foliage and in potentially nicked tubers. Also, make sure that you are buying potato seed that is certified disease free and comes from a reputable source.

Thanks to Ann Hazelrigg, Plant Pathologist, UVM Extension,  above adapted from "2011- Late Blight Reappears in Vermont".

Websites:  www.hort.cornell.edu/lateblight for disease ID and webinar. www.uvm.edu/mastergardener to submit samples for LB confirmation www.nevegetabl.org for info on fungicides labeled for late blight control

New Plants for the 2012 Line Up

We have been busy at work with ordering seeds, deciding on what plants to grow for the coming year, and which ones to discontinue. We usually add about 10% new varieties each year - enough to keep it interesting, but not so much that we risk having bad inventory or unwanted expenses for a plant no one loves. This is really, really hard since the seed catalogs and plug listings each year show more and more varieties that look tempting. Not to mention the world of heirloom seeds which is so vast and so alluringly historic and charming. If the pressures of pleasing customers and breaking even were eliminated, I would probably have the type of nursery where every plant has a sign that is 12" x 12" with lots of text describing some arcane knowledge about how the variety was bred or discovered, how it was cooked in 15th century Sicily and  how it came to be a Red Wagon variety. My winter job at Red Wagon is part business manager, part HR department, and part curator. Guess which is my favorite. Take a look at the list of new plants and give us some feedback. Our favorite new variety is the kind that comes by way of a customer recommendation, so you get a vote in this process.

Happy garden planning, and check out the rest of the website for the complete plant list, we are updating it this week,

Julie

Plant Category	Genus	Variety or Cultivar
Annuals	African Foxglove	Ceratotheca triloba
Annuals	Amaranth	Oeschberg
Annuals	Angelonia	Adessa White
Annuals	Balsam	Impatiens Balsamina
Annuals	Begonia, Tuberous	Illumination Peaches and Cream
Annuals	Begonia, Tuberous	Non-Stop, Bright Rose
Annuals	Begonia, Tuberous	Pin Up Flame
Annuals	Browalia	Endless Flirtation
Annuals	Browalia	Endless Illumination
Annuals	Calibrachoa	Saffron
Annuals	Calibrachoa	Superbells Dreamsicle
Annuals	Calibrachoa	Superbells Peach
Annuals	Calibrachoa	Superbells Trailing White
Annuals	Calibrachoa	Tequilla Sunrise Improved
Annuals	Calibrachoa	Yellow
Annuals	California Poppy	Milkmaid
Annuals	Celosia	Chief Mixed Cockscomb
Annuals	Celosia	Cramers’ Amazon
Annuals	Coleus	Amora
Annuals	Coleus	Big Red Judy
Annuals	Coleus	Fishnet Stockings
Annuals	coleus	Glennis
Annuals	Coleus	Sedona
Annuals	coleus	Wedding Train
Annuals	Cosmos	Cosmic  Orange
Annuals	Cosmos	Cosmic Mix
Annuals	Cosmos	Cosmic Red
Annuals	Cosmos	New Choco
Annuals	Cosmos	Sonata Dwarf Mix
Annuals	Cosmos	Sonata White
Annuals	Dahlia	Happy Days Cream
Annuals	Dahlia	Happy Days Pink
Annuals	Dahlia	Happy Days Purple
Annuals	Dahlia	Happy Mystic enchantment
Annuals	Dahlia	Mystic Haze
Annuals	Dahlia	Mystic Wonder
Annuals	Dahlia	Salvador
Annuals	Dusty Miller	Silver Lace
Annuals	Euphorbia	Mountain Snow
Annuals	Exclusively  Echeveriaa Collection
Annuals	Fern	Montana
Annuals	Fern Collection
Annuals	Floering Cabbage	Osaka Mix
Annuals	Four Oclock	Marvel of Peru
Annuals	Gaura lindiheimeri	Whirling Butterflies
Annuals	Gazania	New Day Mix
Annuals	Geranium	Firestar Purple
Annuals	Geranium	Firestar Salmon
Annuals	Geranium, Ivy	Mini Cascade Red
Annuals	Geranium, Ivy	Sunflair Fireball
Annuals	Geranium, Ivy	Sunflair Neon Pink
Annuals	Geranium, Ivy	Sybil Holmes
Annuals	Geranium, Ivy	Vancouver Centennial
Annuals	Geranium, Scented	Lemon Fizz
Annuals	Geranium, Scented	P. querquifolia
Annuals	Geranium, Scented	Sweet Mimosa
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Brocade Happy Thoughts Red
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Brocade, Mrs Pollock
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Candy Fantasy Kiss
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Madame Salleron
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Patriot Cherry Rose
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Patriot Lavender Blue
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Patriot Salmon Chic
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Pillar Purple
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Rocky Mountain Lavender
Annuals	Geranium, Zonal	Rocky Mountain Magenta
Annuals	Gomphrena	QIS Formula Mix
Annuals	Hedera	Golden Child
Annuals	Hedera	White Mein Hertz
Annuals	Hypoestes	Splash Rose Select
Annuals	Impatiens	Super Elfin Salmon Splash
Annuals	Impatiens	Super Elfin XP pink
Annuals	Ipomoea	Desana Bronze
Annuals	Juncus	Blue Arrows
Annuals	Juncus spiralis	Unicorn
Annuals	Kiss Me Over the Garden Gate
Annuals	Lantana	Evita Rose
Annuals	Lantana	Bandana Cherry Sunrise
Annuals	Lantana	Bandana Rose Improved
Annuals	Lantana - bandana	Peach
Annuals	Larkspur	Sublime Formula Mix
Annuals	Leycesteria	Jealousy
Annuals	Licorice	Lemon
Annuals	Lisianthus	Echo Lavender
Annuals	Lisianthus	Echo Pink
Annuals	Lobularia	Silver Stream
Annuals	Marigold	Antigua Orange
Annuals	Marigold	Antigua Yellow
Annuals	Marigold	French Janie Primrose Yellow
Annuals	Marigold	French Single Marietta
Annuals	Marigold, French	Durango Tangerine
Annuals	Melampodium	Derby
Annuals	Morning Glory	Grandpa Ott’s
Annuals	Morning Glory	Moonflower
Annuals	Nasturtium	Trailing
Annuals	Nemesia	Angelart Almond
Annuals	Nemesia	Angelart Pineapple
Annuals	Ornamental Corn	Field of Dreams
Annuals	Ornamental Millet	Purple Majesty
Annuals	Osteospermum	3-D Silver
Annuals	Osteospermum	Astra Orange Sunrise
Annuals	Osteospermum	Cape Daisy Fireburst
Annuals	Osteospermum	Cape Daisy Purple
Annuals	Osteospermum	Sunset Orange
Annuals	Osteospermum	Zion Copper Amethyst
Annuals	Oxalis	Allure Burgundy
Annuals	oxalis triangularis	Charmed Velvet
Annuals	oxalis triangularis	Charmed WIne
Annuals	Pansy	Delta Mix Buttered Popcorn
Annuals	Pansy	Delta Premium True Blue
Annuals	Pansy	Freefall Golden Yellow
Annuals	Pansy	Matrix Sangria
Annuals	Pansy	Panola XP Mix baby Boy
Annuals	Pansy	Panola XP Mix Blackberry Sundae
Annuals	Pansy	Panola XP Mix Citrus
Annuals	Pansy	Ultima Blue Chill
Annuals	Pansy	Ultima Morpho
Annuals	Petunia	Bouquet Salmon
Annuals	Petunia	Littletunia Sweet Sherbert
Annuals	Petunia	Mini Strawberry pink veined
Annuals	Petunia	Whispers Star Rose
Annuals	Petunia Cascadias	Cherry Spark
Annuals	Petunia Littletunia	Sweet Dark Pink
Annuals	petunia multiflora prostrate	Easy Wave Plum Vein
Annuals	Petunia multiflora prostrate	Easy Wave White
Annuals	Poppy	White Linen
Annuals	Portulaca	Happy Hour Mix
Annuals	Portulaca	Sundial Chiffon
Annuals	Portulaca	Sundial Mix
Annuals	Portulaca	Sundial Pink
Annuals	Rudbeckia	Autumn Colors
Annuals	Rudbeckia	Cherokee Sunset
Annuals	Rudbeckia	Prairie Sun
Annuals	Rudbeckia	Denver Daisy
Annuals	Salvia farinacea	Victoria Blue
Annuals	Sanvitalia	Cuzco Yellow
Annuals	Scabiosa	Black Knight
Annuals	Snapdragon	Montego Mix Sangria
Annuals	Snapdragon	Rocket Mix
Annuals	Snapdragon	Rocket White
Annuals	Spectacular Succulent Collection
Annuals	Sunflower	Sunny Smile
Annuals	Sweet Potato Vine	Bright Ideas Rusty Red
Annuals	Thunbergia	Arizona Dark Red
Annuals	Thunbergia	Lemon
Annuals	Thunbergia	Orange
Annuals	Thunbergia	Sunny Suzie Yellow Dark Eye
Annuals	Thunbergia	Sunny Suzy Red Orange
Annuals	TRIXI COMBO	Ayers Rock
Annuals	TRIXI COMBO	Caribean Cocktail
Annuals	TRIXI COMBO	Gold and Bold
Annuals	TRIXI COMBO	Lemon Sorbet
Annuals	TRIXI COMBO	Lollipop
Annuals	TRIXI COMBO	Sunrise
Annuals	Verbena	Chambray Royal superbena
Annuals	Verbena	Estrella Salmon Star
Annuals	Verbena	Lanai Twister pink
Annuals	Verbena	Royal Peachy Keen
Annuals	Verbena	Tukana Scarlet star
Annuals	Viola	Penny Orchid Frost
Annuals	Zinnia	Dreamland Mix
Annuals	Zinnia	Dreamland Red
Annuals	Zinnia	Sunbow Mix
Annuals	Zinnia	White
Eggplants	Globe	Rosa Bianca
Ferns	Matteuccia struthiopteris	Ostrich Fern
Foliage	Alternanthera	Brazilian Red Hot
Foliage	Alternanthera	Red Thread
Foliage	German Ivy	Green
Foliage	Muehlenbeckia	Wire Vine
Foliage	Setcreasea	Purple Queen
Herbs	Basil	Amethyst Improved
Herbs	Basil	Sacred, Tulsi
Herbs	Basil	Sweet Genovese, Aroma II
Herbs	Basil	Sweet Genovese, Aton
Herbs	Bee Balm	Wild Bergamot
Herbs	Epazote
Herbs	Feverfew
Herbs	Flax
Herbs	French Sorrel
Herbs	Lavender	Fern Leaf
Herbs	Lemongrass	West Indian
Herbs	Mint	Emerald and Gold
Herbs	Oregano	Mexican Lippia
Herbs	Papalo
Herbs	Red Shiso	Britton
Herbs	Red Shiso
Herbs	Rosemary	Prostrate
Herbs	Sage	White
Herbs	Thyme	Lime Golden
Herbs	Thyme	Orange
Herbs	Thyme	Wooly
Herbs	Zaatar	Marjoram
Peppers	Hot	Fish
Peppers	Ornamental Hot Pepper	Chilly Chilly
Peppers	Sweet	Pepperoncino
Peppers	Sweet	Round of Hungary
Peppers	Sweet	Sweet Banana Pepper
Perennial	Adenophora	Amethyst
Perennial	Alchemilla	Lady’s Mantle
Perennial	Sedum	Blue Spruce
Perennial	Sedum	Floriferum
Perennial	Sedum	Oracle
Perennial	Sedum	Picolette
Perennial	Sedum	Voodoo
Perennial	Thyme	Wooly
Perennials	Achillea	Pretty Belinda
Perennials	Achillea	Saucy Seduction
Perennials	Achillea	Strawberry Seduction
Perennials	Achillea	Sunny Seduction
Perennials	Achillea millefolium	Colorado
Perennials	Acorus	‘Ogon’
Perennials	ajuga	Dixie Chip
Perennials	Alcea rosea	Chaters Double Purple
Perennials	Alchemilla Molis	Lady’s Mantle
Perennials	Anemone	sylvestris
Perennials	Aquigelia	Cameo Rose and White
Perennials	Aquigelia	Origami Mix
Perennials	Artemesia	Silver Brocade
Perennials	Astilbe	Delft Lace
Perennials	Astilbe	Deutschland
Perennials	Astilbe	Fanal
Perennials	Baptisia Solar Flare	Prairie Blues
Perennials	Bellis Daisy	Bellissima Rose
Perennials	Bergenia cordifolia	‘Winter Glow’
Perennials	Campanula glomerata	‘Freya’
Perennials	Centranthus	Cocineus
Perennials	Chrysanthemum	Samba
Perennials	Coreopsis verticullata	Early Sunrise
Perennials	corydalis sempervirens
Perennials	Delphinium	Magic Fountains Dark Blue w Dark Bee
Perennials	Delphinium	Magic Fountains Sky Blue w White Base
Perennials	dianthus	Pomegranate Kiss
Perennials	dianthus	Zing Rose
Perennials	Dicentra	Gold Heart
Perennials	Echinacea	Harvest Moon
Perennials	Echinacea	PowWow Wild Berry
Perennials	Echinacea	Sundown
Perennials	Eupatorium dubium	‘little joe’
Perennials	Fern	Barne’s Male
Perennials	Gaillardia aristata	Arizona Sun
Perennials	geranium	Rozanne
Perennials	Geranium cantabrigiense	‘Bergarten’
Perennials	Geranium macrorrhizum	‘Album’
Perennials	Geranium maculatum	‘Espresso’
Perennials	Guara	Pink Fountain
Perennials	Helleborus	Pink Parachutes
Perennials	Hemerocallis	Alabama Jubilee daylily
Perennials	Hemerocallis	Always Afternoon
Perennials	Heuchera	‘Snow Angel’
Perennials	Heuchera	Obsidian
Perennials	Heuchera	Plum Pudding
Perennials	Heuchera	Raspberry Regal
Perennials	Heuchera	Silver Scrolls
Perennials	Hibiscus	Luna Red
Perennials	Iberis sempervivens	Snowflake
Perennials	Iris	‘Before the Storm’
Perennials	Iris pallida	‘Argentea Variegata’
Perennials	Iris sibirica	Pink Haze
Perennials	Joe Pye Weed
Perennials	Juncus effusus ssp.	Twister
Perennials	laminum	Beacon Silver
Perennials	Lamium	Orchid Frost
Perennials	Lamium maculatum	Beacon Silver
perennials	Lathyrus latifolia	Perennial sweet pea
Perennials	Liatris	Floristan White
Perennials	Ligularia dentata	Britt-Marie Crawford
Perennials	Ligularia dentata	Little Rocket
Perennials	Lychnis arkwrightii	Orange Gnome
Perennials	Lysimachia punctata	‘Alexander’
Perennials	monarda	Petite Delight
Perennials	monarda	Purple Rooster
Perennials	monarda	Raspberry Wine
Perennials	monarda didyma	Jacob Cline
Perennials	myosotis sylvatica	Royal Blue Carpet
Perennials	paeonia	Duchess de Nemours
Perennials	paeonia	Felix Crousse
Perennials	Papaver	Flamenco Dancer
Perennials	Penstemon digitalis	Dark Towers
Perennials	Perovskia	Longin
Perennials	Persicaria	Darjeeling Red
Perennials	Phlox glabberima	‘Morris Red’
Perennials	Phlox paniculata	David
Perennials	Phlox paniculata	David’s Lavender
Perennials	Phlox paniculata	Flame series purple ‘Barfourteen’
Perennials	Physostegia	Pink Manners
perennials	Physostegia virginiana	Alba
Perennials	Phystostegia	Crown of Snow
Perennials	Primula	Ronsdorf Strain
Perennials	Salvia	Caradonna
Perennials	Salvia	Sweet 16
Perennials	Scabiosa	Beaujolais Bonnets
Perennials	Scabiosa	Vivid Violet
Perennials	Sedum	Autumn FIre
Perennials	Sedum	Matrona
Perennials	Sedum	Neon
Perennials	sedum	kamtschaticum
Perennials	sedum	sieboldii
Perennials	Sedum spurium	Summer Glory
Perennials	Tanacetum	Robinsons Red
Perennials	Tiarella	‘Delaware’
Perennials	Tiarella	‘Lace Carpet’
Perennials	Tiarella	‘Susquehanna’
Perennials	Trollius chinensis	Golden Queen
Perennials	Veronica	Giles van Hees
Perennials	Viola	Labradorica
Perennials	Viola	Striata
Perennials	Salvia aregentea	Artemis
Shrub	Hydrangea macrophylla	Endless Summer
Shrub	Hydrangea paniculata	Limelight
Shrub	Amelanchier Autumn Brilliance	Service Berry
Shrub	Ilex verticulata	Southern Gentleman
Shrub	Ilex verticulata	Winter Red
Shrub	Viburnum Trilobum	Alfredo
Small Fruit	Blackberry	Black Satin
Small Fruit	Gooseberry	Titan
Small Fruit	Strawberry	Jewel
Small Fruit	Strawberry	Sparkle
Tomatoes	Cherry	Gold Nugget
Tomatoes	Cherry	Green Envy
Tomatoes	Cherry	Isis Candy
Tomatoes	Cherry	Lizzano
Tomatoes	Cherry	Sweet Treats
Tomatoes	Cherry	Terenzo
Tomatoes	Cherry	Sweet Black Cherry
Tomatoes	Container	Red Husky (Patio)
Tomatoes	Determinate	Orange Blossom
Tomatoes	Determinate	Oregon Spring
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Black Prince
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Cosmonaut Volkov
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Costoluto Genovese
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Dona
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Earl of Edgecombe
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Paul Robeson
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Pineapple
Tomatoes	Heirloom	Wapsipinicon Peach
Tomatoes	Hybrid	Brandymaster Yellow
Tomatoes	Hybrid	Park’s Whopper
Tomatoes	Paste	Amish Gold
Tomatoes	Plum	San Marzano gigante III
Vegetables	cantaloupe	Sarah’s Choice
Vegetables	Cantaloupe, French Charentais	Savor
Vegetables	Italian Dandelion	Clio Chicory
Vegetables	Lettuce	Mottistone
Vegetables	Lettuce	Nevada Summer Crisp
Vegetables	Lettuce	Red Batavian Cherokee
Vegetables	Lettuce	Red Cross - Red Butterhead
Vegetables	Lettuce	Red Oak Paradai
Vegetables	Mei Qing Choi (Baby Boc Choi)	Boc Choi
Vegetables	Mustard Greens	Ruby Streaks
Vegetables	Okra	Millionaire
Vegetables	Onion	Mini Purplette
Vegetables	Onion	Redwing
Vegetables	Radicchio	Virtus
Vegetables	Summer Squash	Magda
Vegetables	Vertus	Radicchio
Vegetables	watermelon	Sunshine

Frost Dates in Vermont - South Hero is the Winner!

Here is a great chart that analyses all the temperature data collected in Vermont over the years and gives us the probability of dates for first and last frosts around the state. South Hero and the lake Champlain Islands have Vermont's longest growing season (measured by number of frost-free days according to N.O.A.A).  Take a look and prepare your garden for those first frosty nights. Here is what I do at my house to prepare for those first frosts:

If it is a really early frost, (September in Hinesburg), I will harvest all the ripe fruit on the heat loving plants (squashes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, etc) and if the plants still look healthy and have lots of unripe fruit, I will cover the plants with row cover. You can use sheets, blankets, plastic sheeting, etc. If the frost is coming at a later point, I often won't bother with the plant protection - just harvest all the fruit (green tomatoes can ripen indoors) and call it a day!

I don't bother to protect lettuce unless the first frost is very cold and very early. Lettuce can handle a few light frosts, so it is usually not a problem early on. Later in the season, I set up some simple wire hoops and keep the lettuce under row cover for the remainder of the season. This allows fresh lettuce to be harvested for salads well into November. It is good idea to seed or plant fresh lettuce in late summer and early fall so that the protected plantings of fall are fresh and tender. It is not really worth it, from a culinary perspective, to keep old or bitter lettuce alive. Plus it won't do as well if it is past its prime and won't fend off the cold like a younger planting can.

Hardy greens like kale, mustard greens, collards, etc do not need row cover and can live, unprotected, into December. You can always put some sort of protection over them in November to increase the harvest period past December, but it can be difficult to do with the taller plants. The wind dessicates them and makes them unappealing, and without a larger structure like a cold frame or mini-greenhosue, it can be difficult to give them adequate shelter.

All these attempts at fall crop protection will leave you grateful for the sweet rewards of fresh salads, tomatoes coming out of the cellar ripened and tasty, and nutritious leafy greens sweetened by the kiss of cold.

The Overwintered Garden

“Overwintered” is a term used to describe a vegetable that is planted in the spring, summer or fall of one year in order to be eaten in the spring of the following year. This is a great way to extend the growing and eating season in our Vermont climate. Overwintered crops generally are dormant all winter long and then come back to life with the lengthening days and warming temperatures of spring.

Overwintered Spinach - Not all vegetables can survive our VT winters, but the few that can include spinach, parsnips, leeks, garlic, and parsley. Spinach for early spring eating (mid to late April) should be sown in the first two weeks of September. Once it germinates, allow it to grow without harvesting or touching it. You can eat a little if you want, but ideally you will leave as much of the plant in the ground as possible. Once very cold weather hits, in early to mid-December, you can protect the spinach under a layer of straw, or leaves, or a few layers of thick row cover (Reemay or Agribon can be found at Gardeners’ Supply Company or ordered online at Johnny’s Selected Seeds). In the early spring, as soon as the ground has thawed out, remove the layers of protection and you will see the spinach slowly coming to life, long before any other plants begin to stir. It won’t look like much at first, but will quickly grow to be the size of spinach planted during normal times. It will be extra sweet from having survived the cold and will be incredibly rewarding - a truly vibrant food. This is such a delicious treat for early spring and really worth the trouble.

Overwintered Parsnips- parsnips are a long season crop. They are best when planted in very early spring and harvest the following year. This allows them to grow to a good size and then sweeten up with the cold temperatures. Plant the strange looking seeds in shallow trenches, ¼ inch deep (that is NOT very deep!). Keep well watered and well weeded all summer long. In the fall, you can harvest a few of the larger parsnips to eat September through December, but be sure to elave a few for spring time meals. Once the ground is frozen, in later December, mulch heavily with a layer of straw. The straw moderates the soil temperatures and prevents the soil from buckling and heaving with the freeze and thaw cycles. Pull off all of the mulch as soon as the ground thaws, and then in late April and early May, you can dig up huge, sweet roots that are a lovely addition to spring time soups, roasted vegetable dishes and purees.

Leeks are another crop that is planted very early in spring - mid to late April is ideal. The small and slender plants are planted in trenches, about 6 to 8 inches apart in rows that are 12 inches apart. Keep leeks well watered and weeded. Once they are about 10” tall, you can fertilize them with a good organic fertilizer such as Pro Gro from North Country Organics or Compost Plus from Vermont Compost Company. Then hill up the plants with soil from in between the rows. A good hoe makes this job much easier. The more you hill, the larger the plants will be. This allows for more of the white, edible portion to grow. Hilling also helps to keep the moisture even, another condition which encourages bigger growth. You can hill leeks one more time before fall, in early August or so if you choose to. If you cannot eat all of your leeks in the fall, leave a few in the garden for overwintering. Mulch well with straw (about 6” in depth) and let sit in the garden all winter long. On warmer winter days, you may be able to still harvest some of the leeks if the ground has not frozen solid under the mulch. With whatever leeks are left in the ground come snow melt, pull off the mulch and wait to see what happens. Not all leeks will have successfully lived through the winer, but about 40 to 60% should if you have followed these steps. You will see some yellow and rotting foliage with fresh green growth poking through. These are the leeks that have made it through winter. Let them size up a bit before harvesting. They will come back to life and can be picked and eaten in later April or mid-May. You will have to peel back some of the outer layers, but underneath will be a luscious, silky treat. So sweet in spring, and a great addition to soups, vegetable tarts, or braised meats.

Other crops: I have had good luck with late seedings of lettuce, scallions, cilantro and dill. These all overwintered fine and were good for a few salads in very early spring before they decided to go to seed. The lettuce varieties that I have found to be most well adapted to overwintering are Merveilles des Quatres Saisons, a beautiful French heirloom variety,  and Tango, a green oakleaf. You can also plant shallots and garlic in fall for early harvests. Green garlic is an immature head of garlic that tastes milder than its full grown version.  Parsley is a biennial and will also come back to life in the spring before it goes to seed. Biennials make a flower in their second year, so this is normal plant behavior! Remember, every winter is different. This type of growing requires flexibility, observation, and a willingness to experiment. Exact planting and harvest dates are not easily determined because they are a function of weather, where you garden is sited, and micro climates. The best way to understand overwintering is to start doing it, and see what works well for you. Observe each crops natural life cycle, and learn to work with it in the context of our long and cold winters. There is no better way to say “Hello, Spring!” than by harvesting your first salads in April when green life is just beginning to stir.

Fall Planting Guide

Mid-August is rolling around, and with it comes some vegetable planting possibilities that will feed you late into autumn and early winter. This is a great time to clean out some of the garden beds that have finished producing and replant them with some fresh crops for late season harvest. Here are a few options that you might want to consider incorporating into your later summer gardening routine.

A note on flea beetles and row cover. Flea beetles are little, black and jump around on your plants while making tiny little holes. They love anything in the brassica family - cabbage,broccoli, arugual, mustards, collards, etc. Row cover is a white fabric used to keep out insects and/or to warm up the soil and air around the plants. It does not hurt to use row cover to speed things along and to keep out the flea beetles. Broccoli - seed a small amount directly into garden beds, or buy transplants up to mid-August. If you are direct seeding into a garden bed, remember to thin or prick out and replant the broccoli babies so that they have proper spacing (15” or so). Cabbage - same as broccoli. Choose shorter day varieties. Seed packets usually list the days to maturity for all crops. In early August, you can usually get away with planting a 60 day cabbage that will be ready in early October. Kale - this is a great time to put in a few more kale plants or seeds, they will size up before snow flies, and will withstand lots of wintery weather. The good thing about kale, is that once it is full grown, it will just stand around in the garden waiting to be picked. It does not get “too old” or bolt (jump into seed production mode). This makes it a great early winter crop and a joy to harvest under snow fall. Collards can be treated this way as well. Arugula - a nice addition to salads, this tender green with a mustard-like flavor is also a great survivor of cold temperatures. It can withstand many hard frosts and will continue to add a little spike to your salads well into November and December. You can put row cover on it to keep away the flea beetles and to give it a little extra protection from cold winds that can dry it out. If it starts to turn a little purple in the colder temps, don’t worry about it, it is still fine to eat. This is just a symptom of not being able to absorb phosphorous in cold conditions. Turnips - a short season salad turnip can still be sown in August. I like the Hakurei variety from Johnny’s. It is delicious raw in salads, sliced thinly or finely diced, or sauteed in a little butter with fresh herbs (winter savory makes a special appearance at my house, often in this dish in particular). People who think they hate turnips will just be shocked when they taste these buttery slices that just melt in your mouth. Spinach - in the first half of August, it is a good idea to plant a large patch of spinach. It will germinate in the cooler night time temperatures (spinach does not like to germinate in the heat) and will last a long time in the field in the cool temperatures of October and early November. Carrots - fall carrots are best seeded right around July 4th. This gives you a chance to do an early batch of carrots for late spring, early summer eating, and then a second (or third) batch for fall eating. Fall carrots are considerable sweeter than spring seeded carrots and are definitely worth the trouble. Boc Choi - this is another crop that does really well in the cooler temperatures of fall. It is not a heat lover, and therefore should only be planted in April and May and then again in mid to late August for fall harvest. This benefits from row cover if you have a lot of flea beetle pressure. There are quite a few different versions of boc choi, and if you like the crunchy texture and delicate flavor of this crucifer, then please consider trying baby boc choi, red boc choi, or full sized boc choi. While it is easier to start with plants, it is certainly possible to direct seed this crop. Beets - fall time beets are sweet, tender, and do not have that “dirt” taste of beets grown in full summer heat. Last planting date for fall beets is around August 10th. They should be direct seeded in the garden and then thinned to one plant per 2 to 3 inches. You can space the rows 10 to 12 inches apart and fit about 3 rows in an average bed with a 4 ft width. The greens are tasty too, and the little delicate plants you pull out when thinning are a great addition to sauteed greens, soups, or even salads if very young.

Cilantro and Dill - these herbs can be planted directly in the garden from seed as late as mid-August. They grow well in the cold, and actually prefer it. The cold slows them down and prevents them from going to seed. Plant a good sized patch since you can harvest the plants well into December. They can take a frost, a snow fall and still will bounce right back.

Mustard Greens - these can be planted just like arugula. See instructions above.

Radishes - are a great addition to the late season garden. They can be planted right up to early September, and will maintain a high level of quality right up until it snows.

Lettuce - you can direct seed certain varieties of lettuce for fall harvest. Some do better than others in the cold. I like to plant Merveilles des Quatres Saisons and Tango for their beauty, taste, and cold hardiness.

Parsley - this herb can take very cold temperatures, so make sure, in mid-July or so that you have a nice patch of this going into fall and later summer. If this is an herb that you use frequently, it does not hurt to plant two or three different patches over the course of later April to mid - July. It is a slow grower, so after mid-July you can only plant it from transplants, not seed.

The Fall Garden Confessional

As the owner of a greenhouse business, my gardens are completely neglected between snow melt and late July. This is a problem. Our seasons are short enough as it is, and to lop off about 4 months of key gardening time is a pity. I try to make up for it by making time for the gardens later in the summer and I spend a lot of time on prepping the garden in the fall so that spring planting activities go smoothly and quickly. Early August is a great time to plant or replant the vegetable garden. Throw in some broccoli, lettuces, cabbage, cilantro, salad turnips, radishes, spinach, and even peas. They will be so good in September and October, and you will head into fall feeling like royalty. Rather than see the garden's decline in the heat of late August, you will see a spruced up and abundant second coming. The cool night time temperatures of late Augusst and September are key to a successful fall garden. You can also use this time to fertilize the feed the garden soil (I use Compost Plus) around the annual vegetable plants. They'll reward you with glossy, dark green foliage and scrumptious meals well into late fall.

So as I sit out and look at the raised beds behind my house, I feel better. The overgrown jungle is mowed, the beds are weeded, replanted and looking beautiful. I wish I had more time in spring, but I just don't and I have come to accept it. It's okay, gardening without guilt, right?

Things to Plant Now. You Will be Glad You Did.

August is rolling around, thundering ahead,  and with it comes some vegetable planting possibilities that will feed you late into autumn and early winter. This is a great time to clean out some of the garden beds that have finished producing and replant them with some fresh crops for late season harvest. Here are a few options that you might want to consider incorporating into your later summer gardening routine.

Broccoli

- seed a small amount directly into garden beds, or buy transplants up to mid-August. If you are direct seeding into a garden bed, remember to thin or prick out and replant the broccoli babies so that they have proper spacing (15” or so).

Cabbage

- same as broccoli. Choose shorter day varieties. Seed packets usually list the days to maturity for all crops. In early August, you can usually get away with planting a 60 day cabbage that will be ready in early October.

Kale -

this is a great time to put in a few more kale plants or seeds, they will size up before snow flies, and will withstand lots of wintery weather. The good thing about kale, is that once it is full grown, it will just stand around in the garden waiting to be picked. It does not get “too old” or bolt (jump into seed production mode). This makes it a great early winter crop and a joy to harvest under snow fall. Collards can be treated this way as well. A note on flea beetles: It does not hurt to use row cover to speed things along and to keep out the flea beetles. They are little biting insects that make little holes in the leaves and generally slow down a plant’s growth by stressing it a bit. All vegetables in the brassica family are susceptible to flea beetles - broccoli, kale, cabbage, mustards, arugula, collard greens, and boc choi are all in this family.

Arugula -

a nice addition to salads, this tender green with a mustard-like flavor is also a great survivor of cold temperatures. It can withstand many hard frosts and will continue to add a little spike to your salads well into November and December. You can put row cover on it to keep away the flea beetles and to give it a little extra protection from cold winds that can dry it out. If it starts to turn a little purple in the colder temps, don’t worry about it, it is still fine to eat. This is just a symptom of not being able to absorb phosphorous in cold conditions.

Turnips

- a short season salad turnip can still be sown in August. I like the Hakurei variety from Johnny’s. It is delicious raw in salads, sliced thinly or finely diced, or sauteed in a little butter with fresh herbs (winter savory makes a special appearance at my house, often in this dish in particular). People who think they hate turnips will just be shocked when they taste these buttery slices that just melt in your mouth.

Spinach

- in the first half of August, it is a good idea to plant a large patch of spinach. It will germinate in the cooler night time temperatures (spinach does not like to germinate in the heat) and will last a long time in the field in the cool temperatures of October and early November.

Overwintered Spinach - overwintering means keeping a vegetable alive through the winter for spring harvesting and eating. Not all vegetables can survive our VT winters, but the few that can include spinach, parsnips, leeks, garlic, and parsley. Spinach for early spring eating (mid to late April) should be sown in the first two weeks of September. Once it germinates, allow it to grow without harvesting or touching it. You can eat a little if you want, but ideally you will leave as much of the plant in the ground as possible. Once very cold weather hits, in early to mid-December, you can protect the spinach under a layer of straw, or leaves, or a few layers of row cover. In the spring, as soon as the ground has thawed out, remove the layers of protection and you will see the spinach come to life, long before any other plants begin to stir. This is such a delicious treat for early spring and really worth the trouble. A future post will be just about overwintered vegetables, so if this is something you have been wanting to try in your garden, check back here in a few days!

Cilantro and Dill

are good herbs for fall planting since their cold-hardiness is unmatched, and it will give you something to add to autumn salsas, salads, and pickles. Just sprinkle some seed into a shallow trench, press them in, and lightly cover with soil. The planting depth is very shallow here, just 1/4 inch or so. One of the most common problems with crops seeded directly into garden soil, is that they get planted too deeply. Remember this basic rule of thumb: the seed needs to be planted only 2 times deeper than its own size. Cilantro and dill will live until the first snow! They thrive in the cold. They are true soldiers of season extension.

Let us know if you feel inspired to try your hand with some of this season extension - we love to hear about it!

Managing Garden Pests: Cucurbits (Squash Family)

The problem with plants that taste good to us is that they also taste good to a variety of insects. These bugs can suck the juices out of the plant, chew big ugly holes, and transmit diseases.  Because plants in the squash family (melons, cucumbers, squashes, and zucchinis) are very juicy and sweet, bugs love them. But don't despair! We can help you identify and manage these pests so you can bring in the bounty. Cucumber Beetles

These pesky little creatures are about 1/4 inch long with yellow and black stripes. They love to chew cucurbit leaves until they look like lace. They fly but tend to fall off the leaf when you disturb it, so put your hand underneath to catch them. Squish the beetles and look for their orange eggs laid in the soil around the plant. You can often catch them in pollinated squash flowers, then just squish or drop in a bucket of ammonia, kerosene, or other poison. For serious infestations, spray plants with pyrethrum (a botanical pesticide) every 3-4 days.

Squash Bugs

These large bugs are often found in pairs on squash family plants. They are brown or black, shield-shaped, and about 3/4 inch long. They lay very shiny reddish eggs on the undersides of leaves. They can be easily controlled by squishing or with applications of insecticidal soap. Making a small moat of wood ashes around the plants will control the bugs as well, since they hate walking over the ashes. Just make sure not to get any ash on the plants!

Aphids

Aphids are one of the most common garden pests. They can be difficult to see because they are very small and often green or tan in color. They suck the sap of the tender young foliage and undersides of leaves. If you see ants on your squash family plants, you probably have aphids, since ants are attracted to the honeydew produced by aphids. A variety of methods for managing aphids are available. The best remedy is to squish them when you find them. You can also make "bug juice" by mixing the squished bugs with water and spraying the plants. A spray made of ground garlic, onions, or hot pepper can also be used to repel aphids. Insecticidal  soap or horticultural oil can be used as a last resort.

Flea Beetles

Flea beetles are not as common on cucurbits as they are on plants in the cabbage or mustard families, but they can do damage. They are very small, about the same size as an aphid, and shiny black. They jump like fleas when disturbed and make zillions of tiny holes in leaves. Flea beetles can be repelled using row covers, hot pepper, or garlic sprays, and as a last resort can be killed with pyrethrum.

Managing Disease in the Garden: Powdery Mildew

Well, it's that time of year when we start getting lots of calls and questions about common garden diseases and pests. This post will be the first in a series focusing on how to manage these issues when they arise so that they don't get out of hand. It is wise to pay careful attention to your plants - sometimes small changes in their appearance can indicate a potential problem. The internet is a wonderful resource for solving your garden mysteries, but a good gardening book like Rodale's is indispensable for the serious gardener. If neither resource is available to you, don't hesitate to call us and we can help you troubleshoot! What is Powdery Mildew (PM)?

Powdery mildew is a white fungus that mainly affects plants in the squash family (cucumbers, melons, zucchinis, etc.) but can also affect other families as well. It first appears on the undersides of leaves as white dots, which expand until the whole leaf looks like it's been dusted with a white powder.

What causes PM?

Garden fungi are propagated by spores that fly on the air, which makes them difficult to prevent. The fungi are more likely to grow on plants with a lot of moisture in and on their leaves, and in humid conditions with too little air circulation. It is also carried from plant to plant by insect pests such as squash bugs, cucumber beetles, aphids, and flea beetles, so managing these pests helps reduce the prevalence of PM.

How do I prevent PM?

- Check for insect pests every few days. Squish the pests when you find them, and make sure to look for and destroy their eggs as well. A little vigilance goes a long way!

- Space plants further apart so that the sun can hit all parts of the plant, and air can move easily through.

- Only water in the morning, when plants will have plenty of time to dry during the day.

- Practice good crop rotation. Never put plants in the squash family in the same place as they were the year before.

How do I manage PM once I have it?

Powdery mildew does not usually kill a plant unless it is also suffering from pests. However, the two often go hand in hand, so it is wise to manage it when you see it. Here's what to do:

- Remove the worst-infected leaves with a pair of scissors or pruners. DO NOT put the infected leaves in your compost pile! Either burn them or put them in the trash. After pruning, wash your hands and tools with soapy water or a dilute bleach solution before touching other plants.

- Spraying with a sulfur- or copper-based fungicide once a week on the top and undersides of the leaves will eliminate most of the fungus. Follow this regimen up until 2 weeks before harvest. Alternatively, a mixture of 1 teaspoon of baking soda per quart of water can also be used. Try to spray only in the morning, when the leaves will have plenty of time to dry in the sun.